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TOPIC: Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today

Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 1 week ago #16183

  • tuffybraithwaite
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Ceramic sharpening failed. i guess my old high grit diamonds are warn out - tried 30 mins - contacted leo, tried another hour. gave up on this puppy.
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good day on all the others.

vid is kinda long: 26 mins.

good luck to everyone - see ya
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 6 days ago #16185

  • wickededge
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Hey Max,

Can you describe more what happened so that you classified it as a failure? I've had some great success with ceramic knives but the technique and tools needed are fairly specific. I might be able to offer some pointers.
--Clay Allison
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 6 days ago #16190

  • razoredgeknives
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I've sharpened a few ceramic knives... If I had to guess you didn't go to a high enough grit. You have to use diamonds... So after the 1k stones you can't go to your ceramics. You have to go to lapping films and then you can finish on a strop.

Also note that ceramic knives don't EVER develop a burr like steel does, so if you were looking for this is won't happen and you will end up removing a lot of the blade.
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 6 days ago #16196

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I should like to hear your experiences with ceramic.
My have been using an EP with a 1200 diamond stone and 3k diamond film .
Also freehand using DMT bench stones finishing with the Extra extra fine DMT 3 micron which gave a good result but I would like the Extra fine 9 micron & the Extra extra fine3 micron DMT plates for the WE this should produce a fine edge ; I think anything around or below 1K diamond tends to produce micro chips.
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 6 days ago #16200

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I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k and then on to the (soon to be released, maybe) 3um stones. I keep my stones wet to keep them from loading up with ceramic dust; doing so seems to help a lot. From the stones I go on to 3m diamond tapes (soon to be released as well) down to .1um. The knives get very, very sharp once I reach that level.
--Clay Allison
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 5 days ago #16207

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wickededge wrote:
I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k and then on to the (soon to be released, maybe) 3um stones. I keep my stones wet to keep them from loading up with ceramic dust; doing so seems to help a lot. From the stones I go on to 3m diamond tapes (soon to be released as well) down to .1um. The knives get very, very sharp once I reach that level.
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so clay - are u saying "I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k" like 100/200 and up??

i was under the impression that i could only use high grit 800/1000 and up, so all i had was one old set of really soft 800/1000 diamond paddles - these are orignial to my WE
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 5 days ago #16214

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tuffybraithwaite wrote:
wickededge wrote:
I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k and then on to the (soon to be released, maybe) 3um stones. I keep my stones wet to keep them from loading up with ceramic dust; doing so seems to help a lot. From the stones I go on to 3m diamond tapes (soon to be released as well) down to .1um. The knives get very, very sharp once I reach that level.
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so clay - are u saying "I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k" like 100/200 and up??

i was under the impression that i could only use high grit 800/1000 and up, so all i had was one old set of really soft 800/1000 diamond paddles - these are orignial to my WE

You could start at a higher grit if you're not removing any chips or lowering the angle at all, just matching the existing bevel. You definitely need a marker and good magnification to make sure you're getting to the edge. The coarser stones make it go faster.
--Clay Allison
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 5 days ago #16217

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wickededge wrote:
tuffybraithwaite wrote:
wickededge wrote:
I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k and then on to the (soon to be released, maybe) 3um stones. I keep my stones wet to keep them from loading up with ceramic dust; doing so seems to help a lot. From the stones I go on to 3m diamond tapes (soon to be released as well) down to .1um. The knives get very, very sharp once I reach that level.
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so clay - are u saying "I use my diamond stones up through the standard 1000k" like 100/200 and up??

i was under the impression that i could only use high grit 800/1000 and up, so all i had was one old set of really soft 800/1000 diamond paddles - these are orignial to my WE

You could start at a higher grit if you're not removing any chips or lowering the angle at all, just matching the existing bevel. You definitely need a marker and good magnification to make sure you're getting to the edge. The coarser stones make it go faster.
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"The coarser stones make it go faster."
almost all my diamond paddles are worn out - except 50/80 and 1 set of 100/200's.

THIS KNIFE WAS FAIRLY SHARP = had a few chips near the tip when testing, but under magnification, it had many all along the blade.

had marker and two strong loops - strong for me anyway: 30x & 40X.

i left her a note telling her i would get some new diamond paddles in may and we could give it another try at that time.

so, if she says yes to may sharpening with my new diamonds
start with 100/200's ????
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 5 days ago #16225

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I'd probably start with the 600# stones and see how it went. If it is going too slowly you could drop down to coarser grits.
--Clay Allison
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Ceramic Santuko - Henckels - Wusthofs today 5 months 5 days ago #16228

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wickededge wrote:
I'd probably start with the 600# stones and see how it went. If it is going too slowly you could drop down to coarser grits.
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ok clay
thanks
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