I've seen people mention that you shouldn't raise a burr with the 50/80 grit stones. That's fine but how do you know when to stop?

Say you're using the 50 grits... If you're not going to raise a burr, how do you know when it's time to move to the 80 grits? And the same goes for the 80s - how do you know when it's time to move to the 100 grits?

Sorry if I'm being a simpleton

First, save the 50s for when you've got some serious metal to remove. For example you want to reprofile an edge down several degrees, or make a major repair.

On the 50s, I try and stop when I'm about 1/16 in. away, maybe a tad less, from the edge. Mark the edge with a Sharpie (marker), and watch as it disappears.

I then switch to the 80s, remark the blade if needed, and stop when I just see a few lines in the marker cleaned off to the very edge, if that makes sense. I usually look through a loupe (magnifier) to check this. Then switch to the 100s and start cleaning up the grind marks... that will also usually reach the edge.

Cheers. I didn't have a loupe so have just bought a cheap 10x LED one off eBay, god bless that site.

Yep, I do have a few knives I want to reprofile so won't be using the 50s on everything but definitely for some things.

Curtis couldn't have said it better.

All I can add is: just try the 100's. If you don't see improvement and a burr then go back to the 50/80's. It doesn't hurt anything.

If you do raise bur it's OK. Just spend more time with 100/200's. The only problem I am aware of with raising a bur is the edge will have deep scratches/teeth in it. This can be smoothed out but is less work to avoid it in the first place. I try to force myself to spend more time the 100/200's after using the 50/80's to help get out the deep scratches anyway.

If I was asked... I would say that using the 50/80 diamonds should be the exception. In fact, I have never had a set of the 50/80 plates, even though I have a very wide range of stones for my WEPS. I have done some serious reprofiling with the 100 grit diamonds. I have thought, on certain knives, that something a little more coarse would be nice. I think that was more out of impatience rather than a real neccessity. In the long run, I tend to think that the time saved in cutting metal with the 50/80 grit plates may be offset to a great extent by the amount of work that has to be done in getting rid of the gouges that they leave.


In any case, if you feel that you need to use the 50/80 plates, Curtis method sounds like the way to go.

My 100/200 plates are well worn now after a few hundred knives. When I ned to replace them, I will be happy to get another set just like them.

Of course, anything that I would use the 50/80s for, I take to the belt grinder. A couple of minutes with a 120 or 180 grit belt and I am ready for the WEPS.

Phil

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Cheater.....

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Me too. Currently reprofiling my S35VN Native down to 26° inc and it took around 1000 strokes on the 100 stones. I'm seriously thinking about the 50/80 set right now.

Ken

Well, persistence paid off. I did eventually get this baby down to 26° inc.



It was way harder than I'd expected. It's my first S35VN blade but it seemed much more wear resistant than I'd expected S35VN to be. The only stones that were really a problem were the 100s. I wondering if they have worn more than the others.... Hmmm...

At any rate, Bob is now sending me a set of the 50/80s for the next reprofile. (thanks Bob!)

And I know just the knife for them........

Ken

Please let us know how that edge holds.

Mikedoh wrote:


Will do. I didn't polish it. Only ran it through the ceramics but it's a great edge, starting off.

Ken