Well I received the Wicked Edge, pro-pack 1, for Christmas and my first attempt was les than wicked some of of the blade was sharp but other parts not so much. Can anyone give me the amount of time it take to get this system working? I have watched a large number of Smokeaters videos as reference.

Thanks
Mike

Welcome Mike, and a very nice Christmas gift!

The first edge is like the first pancake... never what the rest are. =P

I think we all had similar issues. The key, and everyone says it but can't over-state it: burr burr burr. Go back to the 100/200 stones, and make sure you have a burr developed all along the blade on one side, then knock it down, and do the other side. Once you have a burr fully formed, start your normal progression. Will make a HUGE difference.

Once you get the hang of it, it's not nearly as much of an issue. And your second time will be much better than the first, just as your 10th will be WAY better than the previous, and take less time. When I first started, a pairing knife took me 30 minutes, at least. Now, a chefs knife takes me 10 minutes depending on the steel, and amount of re-profiling needed. And the result is significantly better than it used to be (some of that is practice, some is the stones breaking in (but mainly it's practice, I think). And I've only done maybe 3 dozen total knives.

also, use Clay's sharpie "trick". Get a wide-tip Sharpie, and basically mark the entire bevel. Then go to town. When the sharpie is completely gone from one side (or, at least, the part up to the edge), you "probably" have a burr (check with a fingernail/cottonball). Then do the other side.

www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=c...ctions&Itemid=89

If you really want to make sure, you can then do it again, and confirm, but it's rarely needed. Just make sure to use some rubbing alcohol to remove the left over Sharpie before you strop (ick).

Good luck, and let us know how your second try goes. =)

TriciaMenendez wrote:


Hi Mike
Let me throw my two cents worth in here.
When you are raising the burr using the 100 paddle, use an up and down scrubbing motion rather than the back and forth strokes you will use later. While you are raising the burr, be sure to move right out to the edge with your scrubbing and along the whole length of the cutting part of the blade. The Sharpie trick is excellent to see how you are doing. BTW this is the only time in the sharpening process that you apply pressure. To check for a burr, I have come to trust dragging a cotton ball along the edge. If the burr is there you will have cotton fibers caught all along the edge. These loose cotton balls are a couple of bucks for a big bag at the drug-store. I found feeling with my finger was really not the best way at all to feel for a burr. Once you have a burr raised on both sides, now you can move to the 200 paddle and begin using the kinds of strokes you see Clay using in his videos. But remember, from 200 through all the rest of the process just gently kiss the metal with the paddles as you go. No pressure is required or wanted really.Doubly true with the strops. Pressure is counter-productive.
Remember too that the stones do need a bit of a breaking in, but keep at it. You can't hurt the knives unless you are brushing then like a Schwarzenegger attacking.
he time it takes will vary but I have never taken longer than a half an hour even with a tough metal like 3G powder steel used on Fallkniven knives.
Reading you first post after using the WEPS reminded me of my first sharpening with it over two years ago.
Keep working and success will be yours and remember brush the edge from 200 on like a summer breeze caressing your cheek! ROTFLMFO!!

Good luck mate
Leo

Welcome Mike.

I had the same issue at first. Stone break in is key. I would suggest a junk knife just for breaking in the stones.

To address your specific question about some parts not being as sharp as other parts of the blade:
1. Use the sharpie marker to see/make sure you are getting to the edge.
2. Make sure you are getting a burr on 100% of the blade. Check every spot. Factory edges may vary over the length of the blade. In course of re-profiling to your new angle some spots may require very few strokes to get a burr, other a lot. You need to keep working on certain spots until you get a bur all the way across the entire blade. FYI the other side of a factor edge may be different. So each side may have different sections that need more or less work.
3. Try again. My first knife was not impressive. After some stone break in I tried again and it was noticeable better.
4. Light pressure. Let the stones do the work.

Thanks for all of the help I will give the Sharpie a try. I did use a very old knife for my firt try one that gets used in the yard so it needed lots of work. Let me ask does using the angle block help get things done better?

The angle cube is cool, and does let you figure out if you need to drastically change the angle that the bar says, but a sharpie will accomplish much of the same.

it's really entirely up to you. I've heard the Harbor Freight one (www.harborfreight.com/digital-angle-gauge-95998.html) is pretty decent, and with coupons, can be picked up for less than $25.

I just have the iGaging one, which works very well, but since I only have the stock angle-bar/arms, it's utility is a bit limited. =/

Good luck!

Welcome to the Forum Mike,

The Angle Cube is well worth adding to your system. You record the exact angle for the knife, the angle will change some from Diamond stone to ceramic to stropping, it may not be much change, but; the Cube will confirm the settings. When you re-touch a knife, with the cube your back to the same angle in seconds. I had one knife I made duller after using the strops, the angle changed just enough for the strop to roll or round the edge. From that I learned - use very light pressure, and check the angles.