Clay,
How do you suggest flattening the stones? My 1600 stones seem flat with each other. But the 1200 stones are definitely dished fairly significantly and only after doing 5 knives with them. Granted I did not check them for flatness before I started using them.

davidmcm77 wrote:


I rub them against one of the diamonds stones under running water. It helps to draw a grid in pencil to visualize where more work needs to be done - when all the pencil is gone, you should be all set. I usually use my 600 or 800 grit stones for the job. Ken Schwartz has posted extensively on flattening stones here: Flattening Stones

I've messed around with my old set and new set all day after flattening both. I'm not getting any more powder coming off the new ones and the results under the microscope look very similar. Wear up to this point seems negligible on both sets. Once I've had some more time to interpret the images, I'll organize them and post them but my first glances at them don't indicate any real big differences (aside from that fact that everything looks big at 510x). I'll keep posting as I learn more, but I'm feeling more and more confident in this batch.

I wish I had one of BassLakeDan's sharpness testing jigs - that would be a wonderful way to compare the stones!

I retested honing oil on the ceramics and I don't recommend it. I get as good or better results with slightly soapy water. The oil causes the stones to come off of the handles.

Clay ...

Thanks so much for all the effort you are putting in to investigate what may or may not be an issue with the new ceramics. For me, the concern was not so much the powder, but the pitting. If using them like this is okay ... I am alright with that. I do remember you mentioning a while ago when you were doing grit progression images, that you did a test with the wetting down the ceramics. It was interesting to see that the manufacturer recommends wetting the down. You are handling a vise issue for me ... but once I am back up and running, I'll be using the ceramics, sprayed down a little with distilled water. Again, thanks.

I had indicated in an earlier post that I was having problems with dusting when using the Superfine ceramics. The problem apparently went away after 6-8 sharpening sessions. Also, it is possible that I could have using the 1200/1600 ceramics in a too heavy handed fashion. I started using filtered water with a bit of dish soap as previously suggested by Mark76 and Clay(I think). The results are excellent.

Also, I received the Coorstek Ceramics yesterday. These ultrafine ceramics work great right out of the box. I followed the Superfine Ceramics with the New Ultrafine (Coorstek) Ceramics. The amount of time spent stropping down to 0.5u is very fast to achieve the desired edge.

I think the difference in the Superfine and Coorstek Ceramics is significant. While the Superfine Ceramics appear to be more porous than the Coorstek Ceramics, the difference in results are amazing. I have consciously tried to lighten up on the pressure with the both sets of ceramics. My results have improved significantly. In my next post, I will try to include a few photos. So many knives, so little time!

Ralph

Adding to the fray:

Anybody seen this as a failure mode or defect yet on their paddles?

i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/SPIN1963/DSCN0129.jpg

ouch .. that sucks

i have used my ceramics twice since this thread started and do not have your problem.

StevenPinson wrote:


"ouch .. that sucks" x2

Never seen or heard of that in my time at WE or since. A few with cracks running across the short dimension - like maybe the stone wasn't quite flat across the length and pressure cracked them. I'd call in and talk with Kyle or Kay and get a new set on the way. Out of curiosity did they crack like that in use? (looks like a crack anyway - is that what is happening? )

StevenPinson wrote:


We haven't seen that before! Please send it in.