10-32s work well for me. Don't seem loose to me and hold quite securely with very little force.

Thanks.
Both sets of screws that I bought work. Both when screwed in partialy have a bunch of slop axially in any direction until they are snug. But, they work OK with minimal pressure. They just don't thread in properly.

I figured out a work around. I have two sets of arms. One stock and one that the nice folks at WEPS modded for me. I took one set of the knurled screws and just filed the ends flat. I ran them into a 10 X 32 die to make the starting threads good. That is it. Original screws that work for fine adjustments.
I can tighten them by hand, and the adjustment is not going anywhere. Much better than using the pointed screws on the back side of the square adjustment bar... and, I don't have to reach over the device to tightens them. For some reason, still would like to know why, they thread in much better, with less slop, than either of the hardware store replacements.

Clay, when you have time, can you confirm the actual size and thread of the original screws??

I have the hex cap screws if I need them later.

Again,
Thanks for the reply !!!

Phil

I have a milling machine so I made new arms out of 1/4" drill rod. Fits much more snugly into the stones which are about .255 ID. The arms that came with the machine are .235 or so. I machined the width of the bottom tongue to fit very snugly into the u-joint and eliminated just about all the movement. Took me about an hour using a collet block to get the faces parallel.

--Jerry

PS I reused the pins. No need for machine screws. --Jerry

Just thought I would bump this thread as cbwx34 thinks this was never an issue and I am only one of a few with this problem.

Interesting to see the straws and the ball joint ideas were conceived in this thread also.
wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_k...0&Itemid=63#2350

Hey Chris...

I didn't say that at all, and don't appreciate being taken out of context.