Jet B wrote:


I wonder if the angle cubes suffer from QC issues? Mine seems pretty good. I can zero it on the quartz base set up my angles on the arms with the stone resting on the blade, then return it to where I zeroed it and it is at zero. If I re-measure the arms ... and have the stones contacting the blade at the same point, it will measure the same angles that I set originally. One thing I have to do is to use the same side of the cube for all measurements, or it seems to be off. I have checked the angles as close as I could with a hand held 8" protractor and the cube is right on as far as I can see with the graduations on the protractor (obviuosly not to the hundredth of a dregree that the cube measures).

I have the same problem with eyeballing the position of the blade in the clamp. I have several convex and a few double edge knives along with a bunch of Full Flat Ground (FFG) blades. They are all a bit of a guess. I read what Clay said about a square. If you checked both sides of the blade against the square, at least it would give a better visual reference for getting the blade vertical. The problem is still that you don't have a flat surface on the knife that you can use to butt against the square to make the adjustment. That is the same issue with the angle cube, though I suppose you could (as with the square) measure both sides with the cube as close to flat against the blade as you can get. If the angles are the same, the blade should be held in the clamp pretty darn straight.


BTW, I should be getting my modified arms from WE today or tomorrow. I decided to buy an additional set of arms and have them modded. The cost was nominal, and I have not had to be without my sharpener at all.
Once I get them I plan to try them with the Holymolar subway straw bushing idea and will post back on what I see.

Phil

Dude, the Subway straws work perfectly! The only thing I had to do (after cleaning off the rod arms w/ rubbing alcohol and sliding the straws on) was to melt the bottom part of the straws to conform to the base of the rod arms near the pivot so they wouldn't slide off... this prevented me having to glue them whatsoever. Now the only issue I'm having is play in the joints themselves. I have already taken them apart and re-inforced them with some knife-making (i.e. really thin) washers. I am going to get some small screws as Clay had suggested and tighten them the perfect amount so there is no play but they will still move freely. Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

holymolar wrote:


Did you tap the joints yourself and put in the allen screw or do you have those screws going into a nut on the other side?

razoredgeknives wrote:

"Did you tap the joints yourself and put in the allen screw or do you have those screws going into a nut on the other side?"

Clay did the modification on the arms of my WE.

holymolar wrote:


I tapped the joint. Am going to play with using nuts too, to see if is easier.

wickededge wrote:


keep me posted.... what size screws do you recommend to fit through the existing hole?

razoredgeknives wrote:


I used a #8-32 screw (Part# at McMaster-Carr: 98164A134) but it was a little larger than the holes so I had to bore those out to fit. I think a #6-32 would work too and maybe wouldn't require boring out the holes.

Hey Clay, would it be possible for me to just buy a couple sets of new modded arms?

I just called the main number and ordered some last Friday. Kyle said he was working on some and he would make me up a set. Haven't got a shipping notice yet. But, he said I would get them this week.
Will be happy if I do..

CrimsonTideShooter wrote:


Yep, please call the office tomorrow and we can get you set up.