I've ordered the modified arms; now what is everyone(anyone) doing to remove the play bewteen the swing arms and the paddles? I've used blue painters tape and it does help but must be re-applied over time and it does drag on the paddles a bit.

CAWalter wrote:


I've been messing with bronze bushings (since reading this suggestion) and the action is very smooth, all the play is eliminated. The only issue I'm having is a slight clicking as the end of the rod hits the inside edge of the bushing. Any ideas?

I also was one who modded the joints at the base of the rod arms... i basically disassembled the joints and reinforced themip with some PB washers... it now doesn't have any play in the joints anymore at least! i did have to sand the OD of the washers down some to make them work. as far as the play in between the paddles and rods I. haven't found any way to fix this yet unless I just want to have some new ones made with a bigger OD. what I have noticed is that if you do a lot of smaller strokes per side instead of one long stroke per side, you will make sure you reach all the way to the edge. if you do one long stroke, then your angle actually changes by one or two degrees by the time you reach the tip. hope this helps!

Clay, what are the specs on the bushing you are using?

Regarding your question, do you mean a slight clicking as the end of the rod near the base of the swivel where it widens?

I found some nylon bushings I'm going to try. ID is 0.240 so that leaves about 0.005 clearance for the rods. OD is 0.312 so I'll have to ream about 0.042 wider so they fit tight. I'll keep you posted on the progress. Clay have you found one method for counter boring the paddles better than another. I have 5/16 fostner bit that should work well and leave a square surface for the bushings to adhere to.

babo wrote:


Can't wait to hear your results. I picked up some cast bronze bushing from McMaster-Carr, part# 6381K412 - Alloy 932 Bronze Sleeve Bearing, for 1/4" shaft, 3/8" OD, 1/4" Length. I put one in each end of the handle, reaming it out with a 5/16" bit. I wasn't overly careful to make a perfectly vertical hole, and I'm wondering if the bushings are in at a slight slant, causing the rod to hit the edge (inside the handle) of the bushing before finding its way into the hole.

Howdy,

I still haven't received my nylon bushings but I may have found the perfect alternative. And it doesn't cost a dime.

A drinking staw..

I cut two to the length of the paddles. Split it the entire length. Place one small drop of super glue opposite the slit and slide it into the paddle. Then immediately run the swing arm through it and spin the paddle around the arm pressing firmly.

Voila - instant sleeve bushing. The ID measurse about 0.242 which is only 0.002 larger than the bushings I was ordering and you don't have to worry about the end of the arm slipping inside and off the bushing on the up stroke. One drop of oil if needed and works like a charm.

I thought of this when I visualized how thin the wall of the bushings I wanted to order were; just like a straw. And being an Old Army Grunt you know what came next; field expediency.

babo wrote:


Great tip, I'm definitely trying it!

I've now upgraded all my paddles with the "straw sleeve bushings" and there is no measurable play in them. Between that and the upgraded swing arms there is no play unless you intentionally put torque on the swing arms. So far I've only re-sharpened one knife and I did not see any of the "micro-bevels" as before. And by that I mean being able to visually see two different planes that the stone cut. It never affected the edge but I guess I'm just a little OCD about it.

As you can see in this image there are still micro scratches but the entire bevel is uniform now. Before I could see multiple facets.



The reflection is of the bottom of the Veho microscope.

Oh and for those interested the image is from the tip of one of my Tanto blades.

That looks really good. I saved some straws today can't wait to try it.