That was a great thread on knife forums - and when the whole "underhoning" issue was still a rather new concept. Thanks for posting that link, Clay!

Mark, the best way (IMO) is to really spend time at the medium grit levels - more than you would think. I generally do enough strokes to make it look good under the scope, then I do a bunch more. You can't do too many strokes here, but you need to lighten up on the pressure to make sure you don't cut too deeply.

There is also what I call a "critical leap" in any progression, which is the transition from medium grits to fine grits. The medium grits will always abrade, but the surface of the bevel will always have those higher peaks and valleys. On the finer grits, the stone is no longer aggressive enough to create such high peaks and valleys, and the surface becomes much flatter as a result. That is when all the previous work will either pay off, or show the flaws.

On the stock WEPS, it the critical leap is between the 1K diamond and 1200 Ceramic. On the Choseras, it's between the 5K and 10K (it's also arguably between the 3K and 5K - but that's another story!) On the Shaptons it is between the 2K and 5K.

I'll let Clay answer the other question

Josh - I'll try to get a progression with the pastes. I may need a few weeks - though.

mark76 wrote:


Great questions Mark. I've fiddled about with lots of different compounds on the strops and finally settled on diamonds for efficiency. As long as you keep the pressure light, they don't dig in too much. I've had some nice results with Chromium Oxide and Boron Nitride, but they are very messy to use and don't work as quickly as the diamonds. Stropping with plain leather works well. Leather has the unique ability to burnish the metal surface while honing the edge. Adding a micro-abrasive accelerates the process of of bevel and edge finishing, giving you a 3-in-1 punch.

razoredgeknives wrote:


In reading this, a question comes to mind about contamination on the strops. I'm guessing you keep them pretty well protected, but if they've picked up metal filing and/or sloughed of diamonds, they could easily dig big scratches.

OK! Chosera WEPS microscope progression is up!

jendeindustries.wordpress.com/2012/02/25...oscopic-progression/

I touched on the concepts of the critical leap and the difference between a paste and a slurry.

Enjoy!

Thanks Tom.
That's amazing.

I have a question. Since I have the diamond/ceramic stones through 1600
and the Chosera 2000 is close to the Ceramic 1600,
would you suggest that I continue the progression, after the Ceramic 1600,
starting with the Chosera 2000
or would it be better to back down to the 1000 or even lower?

A couple more posts and we are all ready to start our professional sharpening businesses .

In connection to the critical leap: you are quite meticulous in your stone progression. Did you miss the 8K "snow white"? Or was it just a few more strokes on the 10K? I hear people who hardly seem to be able to live without their snow white and people who couldn't care less.

Thanks again!