I think that's a great approach, especially since your stones are already broken in. I bet the results are really nice.

ApexGS wrote:

Clay,

While we're on the topic of micro bevels, is there any quick rule of thumb you could share? Something like "3 to 5 degrees works well" or any general guideline. In this case I'm sticking with the factory grind, 22 degrees per side, and want to put that micro bevel on for somewhat heavy duty cutting to last.

I second the inquiry for a "quick rule of thumb" on a micro bevel.




ApexGS wrote:

A micro bevel is a application type item. You first really have to know what you are going to do with it. A couple of questions would be: Do I want to push cut? Do I want to slice? or do I want a show blade?

Also, are you putting this micro on a LH or RH knife? A X/Y split? or just a symetrical folder? Are you really wanting a convex edge for the application or a true micro?

All of these things make up and go into the application of the edge. The idea is to get as small of an edge as possible that will do the work (keep all the steel you can).

If you just want a micro to put one on your edge, just pick an angle number higher than your secondary or primary bevel (i.e. 22 Deg gets a ten stroke 5k stone at 25 Deg). Use a scope to tell how the steel reacts, and then go from there (watch for chipping, rolling, and plastic deformation).

Micros are nice on some knives and will work well ... they also can ruin your last thirty minutes of work.

I was watching a video by John Brodai last week and he was taking about micro bevels. This guy has studied with some of the great masters of Japan. The knife sharpeners of Japan have a very simple approach to micro bevels. They put a few strokes on one side only and a great angle I.e. 40-45 degrees about the width of half a human hair.

I tend to approach micro-bevel angle selection as an iterative process. I generally will take a given knife to an angle a few degrees lower than what I expect the metal to support for the way I plan on using it e.g. I think my CPM154 blade will hold at twenty degrees per side for work around the office, so I take it down to 16 degrees as a starting point. I use it that way until it gets dull. I then add a micro-bevel 2-3 degrees wider and use it again until it gets dull. If it got dull too quickly, I'll got out another degree or two and re-make the micro-bevel. If I was satisfied with the durability then I just touch it back up and keep using it. I generally maintain the knife by stropping it at the original primary bevel for as long as that continues to restore the edge, which will turn it fairly quickly into a convex edge. Periodically I'll go back and refresh the micro-bevel with a few strokes of a stone, especially if I want to have some micro-teeth of some particular size.