I have a couple sashimi knives with single bevels. How is that handled on the WE system?

Thanks!

Steve

Is that a sushi knife? If it is a chisel grind then you would just set it steeper than the primary Fri and micro bevel the edge.

Or do it the "Ken Schwartz" way. For every 10 sweeps on the sharpened side do 1 sweep on the opposite side.

The issue is that the angle on the one side is zero degrees, so I am unclear how the WES will handle that. I know I can sharpen the bevelled side normally.

Thanks for any help.

Steve

Good point... now I understand what you are saying. I haven't sharpened a chisel grind on the WEPS yet, but personally, I would probably sharpen the chisel grind all the way up through whatever grit you want to finish on (same way you do it on the Edge Pro) then I would try to leave the blade in the vise and use the same stone on the back side (freehand, just holding it), laying it flat on the blade face (or very slightly increased), and essentially conduct several very light "edge leading" passes with the same stone. I would be using very light pressure at this point, and alternate from the stone that's on the rod arm to the one that you are free handing. If the vise got in the way, then I would make sure I had the exact position recorded, and remove it from the vise, and do the same thing I described above. After you remove the burr, you could free hand strop it (if you have one) or just finish the same way as described. hope this helps!

Thanks. That *seems* to make sense, but has anyone tried this yet? Any other suggestions?

I have to think that others have looked at this issue before, but a look at the forums did not disclose this discussion coming up.

Thanks

Steve

x2 to Razoredge. I've no single bevel knives, but cannot imagine why it wouldn't work.

I've played around with a couple since the last time this came up, and it can be done. Here's what I suggest.



These knives typically go to a smaller angle as you approach the tip, so by clamping it near the heel, it will match pretty close. You'll also be putting just a small bevel on the front (like a microbevel, only a little bigger). (In other words, you're not trying to match the large bevel). Mark the edge with a Sharpie and with the finest stone/ceramic you have, set the angle with this method. Check along the entire length.

For sharpening, I would start with the finest stone/ceramic you have and work backwards if needed to get the job done. In other words, start with the ceramic, if it needs more work, move to the finest diamond, etc. I wouldn't use a coarse diamond stone, you risk chipping the edge. (One knife I'd consider getting the Chosera or other waterstones for.)

The back side has to be done flat, and you should use only the finest stone/ceramic you have to remove the burr. You can do it with the knife clamped... just take several edge leading strokes with the stone flat on the blade (not on the rod). Near the heel, you can angle the stone to reach it. Don't put a microbevel on the back.

Let me know if this doesn't make any sense.

SteveViltoft wrote:


I've sharpened a few CG (chisel grind) Emersons and Striders, and this was prior to the PP2 upgrade [which has a wider range, e.g. 13-35 degrees vice 15-30(?)].

If you do not feel comfortable free handing the flat (non-chisel) side another thing you can do is loosen the clamp screw on that side and move the clamp inward (past the lowest 13/15 degree setting); you won't be able to lock it in, but it will get you closer to a ZERO degree, and you'll only need a very light pass to knock off any burr with a 1200/1600 ceramic. I've also stropped the edge this way, and it works great.