Just got me a pro pack 1 in the mail, sharpened an old chipped balisong and reprofiled my big bohica kukri to 20deg. Both came out much better than I expected considering it was my first go and was still breaking in the stones. I really want to sharpen my CS kukri machete but am kind of lost as to how I am to mount the thing and what grind angle I should choose. Anyone have any tips?

You may need a longer upper vice screw because of the spine thickness. Will likely need to do it in sections. You can use a marker to find the factory angle. If you're not familiar with using a marker to find the angle, here's a link
www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=c...ctions&Itemid=89

An angle cube is a handy accessory to have.
Hope this helps

Welcome to the forum Lester.

Have you seen this video?

The one in the video is the magnum version which is similar in blade shape as my cheapo big bohica kukri. The regular 13" is the one I have and the curve is much more pronounced. Thanks for the tips guys, I ordered an angle cube from ebay. I also came about this video

very interesting clamping position for the blade, I'm going to try to replicate the position as well as the results. Also a friend of mine told me that the tip of blade should be as close to parallel to the top of the vice jaws to get the best results, is that true?

LesterDeGuzman wrote:


The tip doesn't need to be parallel, how far it is from the clamp also determines how the stone contacts. Take a look at this page...

wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_c...ctions&Itemid=81

The best suggestion is probably Mike's... mark the edge with a Sharpie, and make some light passes with a fine stone, making adjustments until you like what you see. Then document it, so you can repeat it in the future.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll wait till that angle cube comes in. It may be one of my cheapest blades but its one of my favorites. I plan on making 2 BOBs with them, along with a bk7 or bk9 with remoras.

I have sharpened my Kabar Kukri machete on the WEPS. It works fine but you might end up with a fat bevel at the tip unless you can clamp fairly far up the blade. It's fine for a user edge, but you might want to do it by hand if you want even bevels.

Hi Lester - welcome to the forum.

That Cold Steel was a challenge knife in order to sell a system a little over a year ago now. I had sharpened another knife for this fellow the first day of the show and he brought this back on Sunday saying - if you can sharpen this I'll buy a Wicked Edge. He didn't know it, but it wasn't really much of a challenge - the Wicked Edge makes this pretty easy to do . I remember it pretty well as this was the first kukri I had someone bring me at a show. The guy who's knife this is came back to several other shows for more tips and practice and now works with us at some of our shows.

The clamping position in the video is the second position I worked the knife at - I sharpened it in two stages. I did set the angle using the sharpie to match what was there - as I recall this particular was at about 60 degrees inclusive (set somewhere about the 30 degree mark on the left, and about at the end of the rod on the right) Since the bevels looked great, and even on both sides, I just matched what Cold Steel put on it in the factory and didn't set the angle with an angle cube. I sharpened using the Pro Pack I set up of stones.

Here are pics of the two clamping positions I used...




The sharpie is still on the edge through the belly and toward the tip so you can see how far I sharpened in this position.



From this position I matched the angle on the section I had done already and overlapped my work, then stropped the full length of the edge - no change in angle for the stropping.

I used the lower set of holes for the depth key. To find both positions, I moved the blade around using the sharpie marker to guide me to the sweet spots - I think I ended up a bit higher and not resting the spine on the key for the first position

Thanks Bob
Pictures show for me now

many thanks! Great story too