On other forums I understand that many people do no like chisel ground knives and some have suggested to reprofile the knife to two edges rather than on. I expect to receive my Wicked Edge in a few days and as any new user to this marvelous machine, I want to start practicing and I was wondering if it is wise to change the chisel grind to double edge knife? Please help since I really am novice at knife sharpening.
Thanks

Paul

I'm guessing that you are talking about a primary bevel and a secondary bevel.
For example, using a primary of 20 degrees and a secondary of 22 degrees.
First sharpen knife to 20 degrees using finer and finer stones until you reach the finest stone you want to use.
Next, reset angle to 22 degrees and proceed thru your stone choices.
Producing the 22 degree angle will take less time and you will not need to start with as coarse of stones as you did to produce the 20 degree primary angle.

This is the cliff note version.

In case you are referring to a conveyed edge, here is a video link
m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=GhzIUNIFQjE&...ch%3Fv%3DGhzIUNIFQjE

If you are talking about a chisel grind like on an Emerson where only one side of the knife is sharpened I personally don't like them. I know Emerson says that they are easier to maintain in the field but I personally don't feel like they get as sharp as a traditional double bevel. Then again I'm not in the field like these are intended. I go out for a day or three and come home so it isn't really a big issue for me to actually sharpen my knife. i don't want to use a rock or whatever to straitened the edge like the chisel grind is designed.

I'm glad Cory was paying better attention to your question than I was.

In case you want some WE sharpening videos:

m.youtube.com/#/user/clayallison1969?fea...969%3Ffeature%3Dmhsn

Hey Paul...

Welcome to the forum!

If you're a novice to sharpening, I wouldn't start by trying to change the grind on a knife. Get familiar with the machine, sharpening, etc. and then decide. I'd get a couple of "regular" double bevel knives, and get familiar with sharpening. Then I would sharpen the chisel grind "as is", in other words leave it as a chisel grind, and see if you like it, then change it if not. Once you change it, there's no going back.

To sharpen the chisel grind, you can match the bevel side, then make a light pass on the back side to remove the burr.

Holler if this makes no sense.

Paul

Cbwx34 suggestion is good. Sharpen some regular / non-prized knives to get used to things before spiffing up your prized possesions and unique knives.

Interestingly enough I recently posted about the CRKT M16 series and my experiments in sharpening one, also the titanium version. I posted what I recommend to more or less match the factory bevel on the knife DB about a week ago, and have touched up the knife several times with only 5um leather strops since.

The CRKT knives are not a chisel grind, per se. The "back" side of the blade has a bevel, just a much different angle than the opposing side has. In trying to match it on the WEPS, I ended up with 25 on the left arm, and 15 on the right arm. This setup matches the wider angle of the back side almost perfectly, but limitations with the clamp and blade shape mean you'll have to take a bit off to get the more prominent bevel side even all the way along the blade.

It presents some challenges in clamping, and I ended up more or less eyeballing it so the jaws of the vise clamp just above the ridge in the blade, as level with it as possible and aligned with B on the guide. To anyone used to the normal V grind it looks odd, but it's kind of a 70/30 I suppose. It works, and is easy to maintain as any V grind would be on the WEPS.



Hope that helps!

Follow up to the CRKT, which I keep playing with because I'm a tinkerer

I found it a little annoying to eyeball the clamp position, so I decided to chuck it up in the clamp using the top set of holes on the depth key and simply move it as far forward as it would go until the thumb stud bumped the vise jaws. It ends up somewhere in the neighborhood of B.75 or so but gives you two solid reference points (the thumb studs contacting the jaws and the depth key pegs) at the minor expense of needing to really clamp it snugly since there's less surface to bite on.

Using this setup I reprofiled slightly to 19 on the WEPS (standard arms) which only really required work near the tip due to the new alignment further forward. I once again went with my standby finish of 1000# diamond stone but only did ten light strokes with the 5um leather strop, more to clean up and slightly "de-tooth" the edge since my 1000# stones aren't especially worn in yet. This produced a great finish and excellent sharpness that should prove MUCH easier to touch up in the future with this clamping arrangement!