Hi guys,

I have noticed that thin kitchen blades are approximately 1 degree from perpendicular when holded in jaws, so sharpening angle is about 2 degree different on each side. I haven't such a problem with thicker (outdoor) knives. Do you have the same experience or do you found same clamping trick to overcome this.

Thanks!

Lukas,
How are you measuring how perpindicular the blade is? This si something that I have struggled with. Because to the taper on most knives and the difficulty in getting a square positioned as a reference, and the inability to even hold an angle cube on both sides in the same way repeatedly, I have no clue on how to do this properly. So, what are you using to make the determination that there is a degree difference?

Have you looked at this:
www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=c...eneral&Itemid=46

Or this:
wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_k...d=1244&Itemid=63

I was looking for a video online that shows well why the angle marks on the moveable side will always be a bit different (on the right side) than the left because one side is fixed and the other moves. I could not find it, but it inuitively makes sense and the reason can be proven with simple geometry.

Are you using an agle cube or similar to measure angles? If so, get the knife as close to perpindicular as you can, set your angles equally and you should be good. Even without the angle cube, you can adjust the angles (not neccessarily to the same place on the bar on each side), to get an even bevel side to side and you will get a wonderful edge.

I have found that with using some of the tips discussed here, and paying attention to the details. I can get a blade mounted up well enough to sharpen it with no noticeable difference between the bevels on each side. In the end, I have found that even if there is a degree difference from side to side, it does not significantly affect the sharpness that can be achieved, nor the handling of the knife while cutting.

Phil

Hi Phil,

Thank you for your ideas and links. I used angle cube placed on both sides of the blade and take the mean. I repeated clamping several times and got very consistend results.

I agree that angle difference has no effect on edge sharpness. I sharpened 27 cm thin sujihiki (slicer), and had problem with bending of the blade. So I fasten the blade near heel and sharpened the back half of the blade, then inverse the knife, fasten near the tip and sharpened the other half. Sharpness is good, but the assymetry between front and back half is clearly visible.

Yes, this problem is due to assymetry system of the jaws. Symmetry clamping system would eliminate this problem, but propably it would be more complicated and/or less reliable.

I will try a foam tape recomended by Clay and post the result.

Lukas

Finally I found the problem. One my jaw is bent:( . I got my WEPS in April, so here shouldn't be problem with heat treatment. Do somebody encounter this problem with WEPS manufactured this year?

I guess it may have something to do with where you got your WEPS and how long it was in stock before you got it. I had a vice with the bent jaws syndrome, but mine was well over a year old and I have no idea how long the dealer had it before I got it.

I called Kyle and they sent me a new set very quickly. I have had no problems with the new set.

Phil

Lukas, give us a call and we'll replace them ASAP!

LukasPop wrote: