PhilipPasteur wrote:


Don't know about Mamum, but I'm looking at scandi grinds.
Would love to see 11 or under.

Every VG-10 I do is a new experience.
Caphalon's VG-1 not so happy with. Very bad choice for things that touch water.
No matter how many times I tell clients "hand wash right after use, hand dry, put away" ....
Loop them and you'll see pitting and chipping, especially if they are not taken care of.
Have seen similar pitting though not as bad on Shun VG-10s.
Also, the acute angle of Shuns, IMHO, VG-10 not a great choice for it. Like I've said before got to be delicate with them, chippy, and don't dare drop them on a ceramic floor

Beautiful Knife Porn

Absolutely a Classy Knife!

Also, I don't go to hard or under 200 on the vg-10 at 16 degrees .... those things are a bit chippy to me and have learned the gentler and less aggressive approach.

Also at that size, after 1k, keep your eye on the ball ... lots of real-estate and it's a razor by then. Very easy to touch it by mistake as its sitting up there higher than usual.

ScottSherman wrote:


Most kitchen knives/chef's are FFG.
You ahve to play a bit with the WEPS and use the cube as the angle off the clamp may not be flush all the way up so your putting in a filler.

I often duoble up a layer for thick spined knives, double sided tape works too but there is cleanup.

On the Shuns, espicially the large ones like the dm-0500, getting 16 degrees you'll be out at about the 20 degree mark to get it so do use a cube ... the big knives ride high and really change the guide reading so cube it.

Ahhh.... just noticed I forgot to move the directory and am in Welcome Mat

Any modes want to move it?
Sorry!

I'm wondering if anyone knows the angles on a Busse Battle Mistress, particularly the asymmetrical ones.

Wandering off of Wayne's chisel grind post, I was wanting to reprofile my ESEE's, at least 1 to check, and put on a Busse grind.

Problem is, I don't have a Busse

Anyone?

I did one already with the flat grind at 20, after reading the Emerson post was surprised it was as high as 30. The convex I did around 18, guessing from looking at pics of a Busse, but they are too close.
30 on the flat/chisel side would make its face smaller and more in line with what I see looking at a BM pic.

Scott,
Use some chamois on the Shuns, they are FFG by and large and can use the help for dead center.
Plus, I use something on everything to protect the blade.

Good luck!

Great post REK!

I've been using paper wheels ofr things and just about to reprofile a few 1/4's for serrated's.

Side note, I've been playing with Spiral wheels and rogue also.
Some trial and error, found I can run a blade with white rogue across a not too ruined blade, on the corner edge, and the right rogue can make a bur and get in the scallops.
Something to think about.

Bur fully develops due to the rogue. I was really surprised but know the teeth are a bit compromised.
Down side ... it makes a large polish, and if the blade is satin, like normal bread knives, you get a 2 tone. Gonna try a Sisal and see if it works to keep the polish down. Also have seen strange "flapper"?? type wheels, they may work and get in.

But it works. Got a police Spydie push cut and no real abuse to the original blade, but its a high polish blade.
I'm gonna profile my 1/4 papers for say bread knives like Henkles soon.
I have a few knives with scallops that need a rebuild.
Question is time and $ ... is it worth it? Gonna play and see.

Again great post and info.

Also, have heard a rumor, not to take away from anything WEPS, that a scissor sharpener out there can be moded to take a paper wheel and using the set arm, do the same with more precision than freehand, but do not have that piece of equip.

Live and learn and expand is the way to success.

WayneReimer wrote:


Just a thought, a twist on how I do convex .. redoing the highest angle with a 1000 for a few passes.

In your case, go to your toothy grit, say 1000, then dial back a degree or 2 for the strops. Theory is you'll miss the very edge.

In my mind it says it will work and you won't see the less polished degree or 2 but have your bit.

All in theory mind you.

Belt grinder or paper grit wheel.
Yeah, 50/80 grit stones will get there, but belt or wheel will get you there in 2 minutes.
Finish it on the WEPS.

Just my 2 cents.

I'm seeing a halo forming around your head
On the list.

I've got to say, there are a ton of ways to sharpen, but never one way only.
I've used the WEPS for not only edges, strick edges, but so many odds and ends and parts of knives that needed fixing it is a true multi-tool, and will grow in time.
Your concept of the knife being stationary opens up new worlds.
Thank you once again!

wickededge wrote:

Got it.
As I'm now pretty much running off the angle cubes, just need to get the rise and pass the bolt if the blade is thin or with what I say your first experiment I saw, that addon in the top of the vice raising the knife and you getting 9 or less degrees off it.

A vertical one side level for Sushi knives, Emersons, if that's what your thinking, would be stunning.

That would be SWEET!

Put me on the list

YOu add convex scissors and go up the next level to a seat next to the big guy!
Serrated and you get the seat

Question:
So Scandi grinds in the 10 - 11 field are out or is there a workaround?

OK, this popped into my head driving. So haven't thought it out too far but.....

If its technique, spin the WEPS around and mount the knife from the back, so right is left and left is right and sharpen a knife. YOu know, mounted like normal just the WEPS backwards.

If its your left hand technique or whatever, should show it no?

Like I said, just popped into my head, but then again, my head is firmly up my rear in most cases so take this idea with a grain of salt

Bump for great justice!

Any news? .. also clipper scissors and serrated accesory?

Try even a regular paper scissor.
If you go high polish, then try to cut plastic .. slips right through.
200 - 400 grit I find about right like cbw.

ONly down side I can think of on the glove idea is feeling. For instance, my fingers are always touched the edge bor bur and general smoothness, also feeling the edge after wipedowns.

On a grinder I do gloves as you have a good chance of it getting grabbed, especially when polishing.

I hate taking goves on and off.

Just my 2 cents.