Yup, you can mount the knife higher in the clamp, and gain an extra degree or two. Just keep track of what you do, so you can duplicate as needed.

Welcome to the forum!

Have you seen the Tormek - Small Knife Jig, we've (or at least I) sorta adapted to the WE?



Have fun!

loft wrote:




loft wrote:


In general, use the ceramics after the diamonds, then the strops after the ceramics, if you're going for the most polished edge. But there's no set rules... experiment and see what works for you. For example, I'll sometimes just use a little stroppng after the diamonds, and skip ceramics, sometimes stop after the ceramics, others will strop, then go back and put a little micro bevel on with a ceramic, etc. That's the fun and advantage of sharpening your own knives, and the WE makes experimenting a breeze.

Have fun!

Welcome to the forum!

I believe Tom and Ken are the guys cutting stones for the Wicked Edge (I linked to their profiles)... They're not always on here, so you might consider sending them a PM, which should also go to their email. They should at least be able to tell you any issues to be aware of.

Good luck! Keep us posted!

p.s. That your work in your avatar (I'm assuming?) Feel free to post some pics... Looks pretty cool!

I get the same error... I sent a request to the admin.

You can email Kyle direct... kyle@wickededgeusa.com

Welcome to the forum.

All blades can benefit from thinning (to a point, if you go to thin, they can fail)... I actually think a thicker blade benefits more from thinning and/or sharpening at a smaller angle, than a thin blade does.

My .02 is usually just match what's on the blade, see how it performs, then go from there... if you want it to cut better, lower the angle, if the edge isn't holding up well, raise it or put a microbevel on.

On that particular knife, 15 might be too low and won't hold up well, depending on how you use it. I'd see what's on it first, then go maybe 1-2 deg. lower if you think it could do a little better.

This came up before... I think it was a compatibility issue with some browsers. Are you using IE? If so, try going into "Compatibility Mode" and see if you can change it. Or try a different browser if you have one. Older versions of Safari had problems too, and needed to be upgraded.

KenBuzbee wrote:


It's a scissor sharpener adapter for a belt sander.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Might explain the meeting he suddenly remembered he had to get to....

Clay actually has a concept for serrated edges that I think would work good, but can't get anyone to make the dang thing. But he has a couple of decent alternatives in the works.

I added to the hint... it has something to do with sharpening... but nothing to do with the WE.

Yup... call Kyle.

(Also might let him know it came that way... they might want to spot check their supply?)

You mean you guys don't have the serrated sharpener???



(Kidding of course).

I do know the serrated attachment is closer.... because I broke his prototype last time I visited.
(Never take me to a china shop.)

(I'll leave it to your imagination to figure out the photo... HINT: has something to do with sharpening, has nothing to do with the WE.)

Great post Ken!

wickededge wrote:


My plan is to just use them with the strops... especially in the carrying case. I probably wouldn't use on anything else.

I just do a quick spray from one end to the other (1 pump) then one the other way, then I'll lightly hit any area that looks like I missed. So maybe 3 sprays total. I don't rub it in. After that, I'll just touch it up occasionally with one quick spray across the entire strop. I let them sit a few minutes before using.

After spending the last couple of days trying to solve an internet issue... I metaphorically figured out it was the knife, not the stone. So, maybe try another knife? I know from past experience that some knives can have just enough of an imperfection in them, and that waterstones seems to bring them out.

I also agree with the others... using your finest diamond before switching should help.

As far as I know, he's correct on both points. Some of the WE parts are made in China, some in the U.S.... and I think most of the assembly in the U.S, at least of the stones.

It's fixed in 2 degree increments... there's no way to adjust it beyond that. It uses a pin that holds it in place based on notches in the angle arm bar, so unlike the "regular" WE, you can't loosen a screw and move it a little, or anything like that.

So, I paid my penance, here's the info FWIW.



As you can see, this knife is a bit beat up. All of the errant grind marks are from past sharpening attacks (long before the WE). I probably haven't even carried this knife in over 10 yr., although I used to carry it all the time.

Didn't have the most even edge on it, so I picked an angle that wouldn't cause me a lot of effort, which turned out to be 32 deg.... per side. Seems steep until I realized the rest of the bevel is around 12 deg. so the the edge is around 20 deg. per side give or take. Not too bad. Leaves a bevel around 1/16" wide.

Anyway, came out pretty good, actually sharper than it's ever been from what I remember, and better than I expected (especially since I didn't spend a lot of time on it). I just sharpened it to 600g... not stropping or anything else. It'll slice paper... won't really pushcut... and will actually shave a few arm hairs, although I wouldn't call it shaving sharp. It'll pass all the "Edge Tester" tests (discussed elsewhere). I don't think the steel in this one is very good... not sure how it compares to a Gerber, but guessing this is a knock off. (Didn't know much about knives back then either). Plus it gets thick pretty fast behind the edge. Since I'm sharpening a "fighting knife" I tested.... with a 600g finish it would immediately cut into skin when I tried.

Thanks Leo!

tuffybraithwaite wrote:


I'd be curious what settings you used on your knife. Thanks!

Hey Leo:

You're right... guess I should stick to my rule of don't talk about what you don't have. Funny thing is, after looking up the Gerber dagger, I actually have one that is similar to it. I also have a ZT boot dagger, that has a decent profile, and can take a pretty good edge.

I guess I was thinking of the thick "novelty" style daggers that people buy and then want it to whittle air. (Not implying that this is what the OP wanted... just what popped in my head when I replied). So, my bad.

BTW, it looks like you can read GET TOUGH right online.

Thanks for setting me straight. As penance, I'm going to go sharpen the Gerber style dagger I have.

I'd vote stones first... arms later. Sounds like you have a need for the stones, and would benefit more from them at this point.

That's my vote!