Thanks again for the great info. I'll look through the other forums.

On his web site he has a message he's at a knife show (How do I get a job like that). He'll be back tomorrow.

Wayne,

If your thinking about ordering you can also contact Bob Nash at Oldawan Tools. When I originally ordered my kit, he was on the road driving to a knife show. He took my call via cell phone and told me he would have my order shipped that day. He did! I've placed several orders with him. He's in New Mexico, I'm in Wisconsin…the basic kit plus base was delivered in less than a week. My other orders like strops, ceramics, or the new arms were all delivered in two days.

www.oldawan.com/index.html

I also got my kit for Oldawan and it had shorter screws included. I just didn't know it unit I told him I was having same problem (I thought the extra screws were just a second pair). So you may actually have some shorter screws in your kit.

I haven't had any problem with the screws coming loose on the new arms. Additionally, the new arms have an allen wrench inserts. I just hand tighten and give an additional "very slight" turn with the allen wrench.

Thanks for the great info.

I'm about to begin sharpening some nicer German & Japanese chef's knives, is there any reason (generalizing and assuming good technique), 100 to 600K diamonds should not be used for reprofiling before moving onto the 400/600K Chosera's? Or are the 400/600K Choser's meant for that task? My goal is to have functional knives with an edge that will last. So, I probably wouldn't go beyond ultra fine 0.6 um ceramics or 2,000/3000K Chosera's -- for this task I'm not concerned with a mirror finish.

There was a lot information in the replies about different metal compositions and hardness. Are there a couple of good resources where I can learn more? I've checked several commercial knife manufactures web sites and some of the info can be scant if not impossible to find.

Now I have a question on new arm maintenance. On the ball joints I've been using dry lube. Do you have any other recommendations. The micro adjustment screws are very tight/difficult to move. Is there some form of lube that can be used to allow them to adjust easier?

Hey All, new member here from Wisconsin. I've been using the WE pro pack for about a year. As time has gone on, I've found the whole system just keep getting better. I started with the basic kit, added basic ceramics, added paste and strops, got the new arms, got the new ceramics, and yesterday received my first set of Chosera stones (800/1000K). If your on the fence about purchasing the Chosera's -- "Be Like Bo and Just Do It! Got to hand it to Bob Nash of Oldawan Tools -- he and his crew get me all my new goodies in about in two days!

I just read Wiki, and the use of water stones. There was a nice write up and photos by Philip Pasteur. After reading it I have a couple of questions: he said he used ceramics after 1000K diamond and before the 800/1000K Chosera. Does that mean both sets of ceramics before the Chosera's 1200, 1600, 1.4 and 0.6 um?

Second I read another post about chipping. One of the individuals made a comment about not using diamonds on blades with a certain Rockwell Hardness. Can anyone clarify -- sorry I couldn't find the post. Up until now, I've been working on Chicago class chef's knives. But with some more knowledge and some additional water stones, I'd like try sharpening some of my nicer chef's s knives. Thanks for any advice.