I think I need to revive an old thread.

I've tried to enter two new knives in the knife database but only one has shown up (and I've been accredited 0 points).

Maybe something to look into again for the web team?

BR,
Johannes

The stone that would be the next I line (at lest for me) in your setup would be the 800/1000 weps diamond. For me that one is invaluable, is you're not going for polish it gives a great toothy working edge and to be able to move to higher grits it is also good for removing scratches.

What happened to lapping them on the WEPS diamond plates? I saw a video on YouTube where I think you were doing just that?

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Absolutely, I'm only using it as a help, the best one I could figure out. Besides most of my floors and tables are straight, I still haven't had any dinner plate slide of the table...

And what I did first was to verify all the way from floor to WEPS with both the angle cube and a bubble level.

This is what I came up with:

www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=c...&Itemid=63#10757

It is not 100% (either) but looking at the fishing lines I can make sure it is not tilting too much at least...

Yes mine were definitely bent from the start, I just didn't realize they shouldn't be like that until I saw some forum post here with pictures.

I'm (almost) always using some foam tape or similar to help clamp the blades, it's an easy addition and make clamping very solid without having to apply much force.

I just did a petty knife (ffg) with the newly received jaws and I do believe it saw easier to clamp it now compared with the defective ones.

Hi there

Just got a new set of vice jaws (thanks Kyle) cause my first ones were bent ootb. The new ones are perfectly linear (except for maybe the very outermost tip) but I'm guessing that is ok.

Now to make sure I don't risk ruining the new ones I'd like to ask about clamping pressure? (I've looked at clay's video and it seems he applies a decent amount of torque to the vice jaw key)

And secondly would it even be possible to bend the material the vice jaw is made of by just clamping a knife to hard?

wickededge wrote:


What grits will it be per handle? And is that an order for internal testing / evaluation or is it for selling?

I've got the PP2 so currently I go from 1k diamonds to MicroFine ceramics and that is also (for me) at too big step, I've ordered the SuperFine ceramics to see if that will help me. But I would really like is 1200/1600 diamond plates that I think would be awesome as an additional step before ceramic stones...

I guess there is some reason that high grit diamond plates does not exist?

Just wanted to say thanks to Kyle for a quick solution to my issue with the vise jaws. Looking forward to receiving my shipment!

And holding a ruler to both of the vises it seems that both of them are bent. It's difficult to photograph that without 3 hands but if you want to see it I'll give it a try...

I've have actually been having the same problem also!

I didn't recognize it until I saw your images cause I thought it was suppose to be that way since it came like that out of the box.

But it could explain some problems I've had with clamping thin blades maybe?

Razoredge wrote:


PhilipPasteur wrote:


Razoredge wrote:


Yes, I was actually asking for opinions since my idea from the start was that very few people would have the necessary equipment in their basement or garage or were ever they keep their WEPS to actually be able to accurately measure any quantifiable difference between sprays of these particle sizes. But with that said, if someone actually have the hard facts or the proof of one material over the other, please do share! That would make it much easier to decide if it is worth the extra bucks for PCD spray.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Razoredge wrote:


KenBuzbee wrote:


So basically it seems we have to agree to actually feel to have an opinion on this topic.

I found Mr. Schwartz blog a few days ago with some interesting posts on PCD sprays (and CBN) from different vendors, but the really interesting parts was the SEM images of the sprays!
Precise Sharpening

I found this YouTube video a while back, but judging from the comments some people (as always) have another idea of how it's supposed to be done. And I'm sure you will get a lot of other great suggestions here.

Hi there

Just wanted to get opinions if anyone notices any real difference between a CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) spray and a PCD (Polycrystalline Diamond) spray of the same brand and particle size?

I'm guessing there should be some difference (except for cost and particle material)?

//Johannes

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Yes, absolutely, and thanks for the info!

Native5 in s110v sounds great if you can wait for it. There is also a Manix2 XL in s90v coming out which seems very nice as well, I think it's a knifeworks exclusive.

Thanks, I've actually been in contact with Mark Richmond about the Richmond Ultimatum but it is out of stock and he wasn't sure there would be any more.

The next step would be the 21cm Artifex, but I also prefer a 24cm chef's knife (and I'd like it to be a wa-gyuto as well), so I haven't decided what to do there yet.

In zdp-189 you also have the Spyderco Endura 4 which I think is really nice. And in another "super steel" you have the Benchmade Barrage 581 in m390 which I think beats anything I have for the moment, the knife is maybe on the heavy side for some, but I just think it feels real solid. When the hunting season starts here (mid august) I'll put the Barrage 581 through some real world tasks instead of just cardboard cutting.

The m390 is really a solid performer so I'm actually trying to find a chef's knife in m390, but that is proving to be difficult.

R.JeffreyCoates wrote:


Absolutely, just as I wrote in my post just before yours I have verified my setup in two different ways to make sure that my table and WEPS are horizontal.

KenBuzbee wrote:

I’ve seen this from many different people in different posts, which make me really think twice about buying them since between coarse MicroFine and fine MicroFine I have no problem removing scratches. It’s between 1000 diamond and MicroFine that I think the step is too large (for me at least), I would love to have 1200-1600 and maybe 2000-2500 diamond plates Clay!

KenBuzbee wrote:

Number of strokes varies a lot, somewhere between 30-150 strokes per grit I’d say. Mostly I listen, look and feel. I’m using both a loupe (40x) and an USB microscope (400x) and from what I can see I get a nice uniform scratch pattern with no real visible or deeper scratches between diamond stones. But I also think it can be hard sometimes to really see if all scratches from before is actually gone since they are all in the same direction (and that is probably what I notice later when using the MicroFines).

For sure I’m using more pressure than that to begin with, I probably end every stone with the pressure you start with (the weight of the stone). So this is something I will have to try…

Then again, the whole scratch removal is just cosmetics since I have no problem getting hair whittling or tree topping sharp edges which is the real objective. And I can actually get enough of a mirror finish as well (reading back fine print text and so on) but it just takes a lot of scrubbing with the MicroFine ceramics.

KenBuzbee wrote:

Yes it definitely helps with any and all input from more experienced WEPSers, I’m still new to the tool.