I was looking around and saw some posts on setting up for farmers markets and for travel or going mobile. So I figured I would share a little of what I have going on. I just set this up really quick in the driveway to show what it looks like.

I can not seem to be able to upload pics so you get Photo bucket for now.

This first set is how i break down my WE for travel because the jaws sit too high to pack it in this case.
s1348.photobucket.com/user/jethro1975/li...wn?sort=3&page=1

Second set is kinda how I have my sharpening station setup
s1348.photobucket.com/user/jethro1975/li...up?sort=3&page=1

Thanks for looking.
Jed

DMT has some small diamond stones that are coarse, medium and fine and are about the size of a credit card or a couple of double sized stones that open up like a butterfly knife. They all work great and are very compact and light. But the edge I put on with the WE lasts a very long time so out camping and does not need to be re-sharpened but I strop my knife on the back of my belt and it will whit the edge back into shape for that razor polished edge. And if I go out of town to see family or friends I throw my case in the car and go.

The option of portability is tough as far as backpack size as the think weighs a lot. Clay came up with a carry case that is a great design and is already cut out for your WE and accessories. The other thing is that the base is 12"x12" and the height is about 7" tall. I break my WE down to transport it for now. I have a small Pelican 1450 case that I carry mine in for right now. I have a layer of foam on the bottom then put my base down with my vice jaws next to it with a pair of gloves. Then another piece of foam with stones in a Plano case with the arms and arm bar then another piece of foam over that with a cigar box with some goodies in it and the angel cube in it is box.
My next step up is my Pelican 1510 carry on case with wheels and layed out like Clays design and see if I can attach a chair and my Rigid work stand and table.
m1348.photobucket.com/albums/jethro1975/WE%20BreakDown/

My event license only allows me to render a service, so i am not allowed to sell anything - over the years i have gathered up many knives from here and there......so i give them away and hope i get a sharpening service out of them......in 6 sat's i have sharpened 5 - already sharp, i just strop for few minutes........2 to 3 bucks max. amount
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scissors - not hard to sharpen by hand - i use EP 600 paddle and end with 800 most of the time.
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shears - i use cordless drill with sharpening stone (round) - on small ones, i use hand file and 800 paddles - on some larger ones, i have used the 80 and 200 paddles.
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i use the EP polishing tapes a lot on the WE - i just stick to fine side of ceramic paddles and go to town with them - i like the polishing tapes and i really want to get some of those diamond lapping film from lee valley and try some of those also.....they sound pretty nice.[/quote]

I was selling knives that I had sharpened too but I also went through and sanded down the scales until they were even and revealed the nice wood under all the gunk and grime. Second is a coating of polyurethane with a 4 hour dry time and a 220 wet sanding then a final coat of polyurethane and then hit it with the WE. I call it recycling and giving the old knives a second chance. The farmers market is alright with that. seeing how people make bird bathes out of terracotta planters and such it only seems fair to allow sales of a "recycled" knife. Max I do like the free knife sign and may see if I can get some more sales that way because people always like deals.
I have to brag a bit on this as I get the knives from yard sales and the thrift stores at about .25 each, clean the blades up with some barkeepers helper to make the blades shine again then finish the scales as above and sell them for $8 to $10 each depending on the size of the knife.

Welcome to the forum. I did the same thing as you have done. I saw the WE when looking at sharpening videos and lurked on here for a few months. While lurking and reading I saw what an amazing product it was and with the amazing results and great praise that everyone here was giving the tool that I decided to pull the trigger and spend the money to get it. The WE is pretty easy to use but it is the small details that you will find on here that will make all the difference in the finished product. There are a couple little things you can do to add onto your arms and base to make things easier but that is it. With the basic kit I can highly recommend to shim the arm joints with some washers to take out the play to achieve the best results there. The best of luck sharpening and as far as I am concerned this will be my last sharpening system I will ever buy. Not saying I will not buy more attachments but no more sub par sharpening for me.
Jed

What a great idea you have there. I just stole the idea of the Rigid work stands to mount my WE on. I did have to add washers as shims to keep the lateral movement out of the platform and the little rocking front to back is not that bad but I will still try to eliminate that movement as well. I use a Husky folding work table that is 24" x 24" to set my stones and other stuff on and another folding table to place my sales knives and my orders coming in and going out on too. I do like the compact route as well too because it packs up nice and neat and stows away in the trunk of my car easily. But great setup and thank you for sharing your set up. I will have to get some pictures of mine once it is perfected.

I was the same way with the WE. Everything has to be perfect all the time! My knives are still perfect and the ones I do for family or friends are perfect or the ones who want to pay for it can have it perfect. Sharpening for the public is different. Now it takes 1 to 2 minutes to set up the blade to sharpen and 5 to 8 to sharpen the rest of the way which is 10 minutes per blade for the general sharpening and prices go up from there. But sharpening at the farmers market I am charging $5 each for up to a 6" knife with a decent edge that does not require re profiling and more for longer blades. I have also gotten to where you know whether it is in the top or bottom slots, then you just eyeball the fwd and aft measurement quickly to where you want the blade, the other thing is with the angle cube to get it within +/- 1 degree of your desired angle. So a 20 degree could be at 19 to 21 degrees and it does not matter if one side is 19 and the other is 20. The angle depends on how crummy the blades are if it is a junky blade it may be 30 degrees on each side. I do not want to spent 10 min just resetting the single bevel at 20 degrees when I can make it more obtuse at 25 or 30 degrees per side. Next are the grits, I start with the 80 usually to get a even working edge then work up to 600 then hit it with 10 strokes each side of the coarse ceramic the 10 each of the fine ceramic, 10 strokes of the 1 micron strop then 10 of the 0.5 micron strop. I am sharpening to make a profit and not to make it a perfect mirror polished hair popping edge. This process I use is similar to what Clay mentioned and it turns out a knife sharper than any of them have ever had on a knife. I do offer to do the whole works on the knives if they want to pay for that service and I do those at home normally or if it is slow I can do it there. this edge will still cut copy paper and phone book paper. Maybe not turning out a "perfect" edge will save you time.
Best of luck
Jed

Clay
Very slick setup there. I may have to see if I have any customers at the farmers market who would need some chisels sharpened. I keep mine sharpened up on wet stones, but this may help some other chisels that would have taken way too long on the wet stones. I have the 50/80 grit stones that could really do some good material removal on some jacked up chisels I have seen over the years. I will have to get this soon and I can not wait for that serration sharpener to come out too. Keep up the good work and the great designs. Any guess to the cost of this attachment or the serrated sharpener?
Thank you
Jed

The final cut I got was a small one but on a big 14" butcher knife and it was in slow motion as the very tip "just enough to draw blood" of my little finger nicked the blade and went flying through the air.
I still catch myself every now and then on the blades but I am trying to go a bit faster to keep the production line at the farmers market going. Gotta make fun money. So safety is key because cuts will slow me down there and open wounds working at the hospital is not on my list of a good idea either.

Ansell HyFlex 11-500 Kevlar Cut Resistant Gloves

I bought them on eBay a year or so ago for $25.00 for 12 pairs of them I think they are $36 now. I looked up the cut ratings and the cut pressures needed to cut through this specific pair and they boiled down to what I thought I needed. There are some other pairs out there with a much better cut and stab resistance but I was not going to shell out $85 - $125 for one pair. Any way you go with safety gloves is a lot cheaper than stitches will be.

You can look through this and see if they might be the pair for you. I have to save my money for the new serrated sharpening stone and some water stones that is why theses appealed to my needs.
www.ansellpro.com/hyflex/11-500.asp

s1348.photobucket.com/user/jethro1975/me....html?sort=3&o=0
s1348.photobucket.com/user/jethro1975/me....html?sort=3&o=1

Hope this info helps some.
Jed

I use 95% of the stuff listed through this topic but no one has listed gloves. I bought a dozen pairs of Kevlar gloves because I was beginning to look like I had been on the losing side of a knife fight. Believe me since I have been wearing them I have slipped a lot and the gloves saved me from some old fashioned blood letting. Protects well against slashing cuts with some good pressure and mild pokes with the tip. I donated one pair to see how much it would take to cut them and I was pretty impressed with my sharpest knife fresh off the WE it did not cut all the way through the top layer and the rubber coated palms did not make through that side either. Just my .02 worth
Jed

Thanks Clay for the quick response and letting us know the status of your new and evil genius attachment. I am happy to see that you are so involved in your forums and that you take the ideas and suggestions of others into consideration when doing your R&D. I can not wait to get my hands on that little gem. That addition will make your system all but unbeatable as that seams to be the only thing lacking from your perfect sharpening system. Once again an honest thank you for making a wonderful product and improving upon it to make it even better, also keeping true to your small business attitude of customer satisfaction. Which makes me proud to be a Wicked Edge owner. Clay I wish you all the best luck.
Thank you
Jed

I remember hearing something on the forum about one stone that would sharpen all kinds of serrations. I was just wondering what ever happened to the stones or if they got put on the back burner for other products. I have tried the round files with sandpaper but I do not get good results from it as I believe I could produce with the WE. Just a little insight would be great and thank you to this forum for everyone on here with their problems and others with their solutions. This has been a wonderful asset for me I know.
Thanks
Jed

I had the same problem but caught it the first time the threads were buggered up. I pulled the metal screws out and put in some nylon screws from Lowe's that have a big head on them. then I tightened them down really good and have not moved them since. The friction of the nylon on the threads of the fine adjustment screw keep it really snug but not too tight as a lot of force is needed to turn the screw. Or if you like the screws that are on it you can place a 1/8" long piece of a small dowel or nylon rod in the screw hole and use that material as a cushion against your threads. Then use the original screws on top of that material to push it against the threads. Hope this helps some. This is the only modification I have done to my WEPS. I am also going to put some sort of cushion on the forward edge of my base so my rods do not chip my pretty stone base. I also plan on sharpening at my local Farmers Market with the possibility of the Flea Market and my local gun range too. Keep passing on your experience at your farmers market and hopefully everyone who wishes to do this can learn from one another.
Thank you
Jed