So here is my attempt to explain how I line up my angles. It works well for me.

1. Put angle cube on the heavy base in front of the blue metal base of the WEPS. Zero it.
2. Lay the angle cube it on its back flush against the lip of the blue base (It will read “error”) lay a stone against the angle cube. It will stick together due to the magnets. slide them so the tops are both flush against the lip of the blue base. (Now they are both laying flat on the big base and flush against the blue base.
3. Then put the stone/cube assembly on the rod.
4. Use a straightedge across the black jaws and the stone/cube while it ison the rod. It will be vertical (or close enough) so that one can obtain a repeatable and accurate reading. Now set the angle as you would normally do.

Sorry for the cumbersome description. I’d show pics, but I just can not get that to work yet.

I vote no wheels. If I need wheels on mine I'll use one of those fold-up hand trucks. That way I can keep maximum flexibility.

That is a simple and effective solution. The only concern I see is making sure the WEPS is on a level surface. Using the gravity method one is measuring the knife relative to vertical. What one really needs to measure is whether the knife is perpendicular to the WEPS.

Using gravity will show the angle of the knife relative to horizontal (0 degrees) but, the WEPS may or may not be on a level surface. So if the knife is at 90 deg and the WEPS is set on a table with a 2 deg slope the gravity method will show a false 2 deg. error.

What one really wants to measure is the knife to vise angle. Gravity measures the knife to earth angle. For maximum accuracy, all measurements should be taken relative to the WEPS not true 0 degrees.

For example, when I put my WEPS setup on my table and put an angle cube on the base it shows a 0.5 angle. I zero it out and then set my angles.

If you have access to an angle cube I suggest zeroing it out on the WEPS base then setting it against each side of the knife. If the knife is truly perpendicular to the WEPS vise the angles will be equal on each side of the blade. After all, I am not looking for perpendicular to horizontal, I am looking for perpendicular to the WEPS.

I will be interested to see the results of the field tests.

I just finished a set of 24 steak knives. 18 deg. narrow blades . . . tough to do on WEPS. At times wanted to revert to my old APEX ( which handles small blades well ) Hopefully this will enhance the versatility so that I can do all my small kitchen knives on WEPS at acute angles. I have many more small knives to do (paring knives and the like)

I'd offer to test for you, but you seem to have it well in hand and I am unsure that I am qualified to give the technical feedback you need.

If you need more input I am available. In any event I will be an early adopter.

"How long did it take you to reprofile the blade in question? If you cut that in half, would the time saved be worth $65 ???"

>>> not to mention you would have it for future use as well. I do not have 50 / 80s ...YET But if I did I am sure I could/would find a use for them. Especially on first sharpenings of a knife.

I agree 20 is about it.

I find that they will take a finer edge . . . but it will not last long.

The same w/ Chicago Cutlery. I have some "vintage C.C. ... 60's & 70's ... not great but I like them. They always took a good edge and performed well. I just did 24 C.C. steak knives (model 103 S) to 18.00 deg. Makes even tough steak seem tender . . . but the edges go fast.

Same with my Vintage carbon steel Sabatier, Wusthof, and Henckels. They are softer steel. A joy to sharpen. They take the edge fast and well.

Welcome. I'd love to see some photos as well.

Great idea.

GREAT

MarkMassie wrote:


Thanks. Do you use spacers as well because, in my application the hex key would be wider than the knife blade so unless it was under the spacers it might hang-up. Have you experienced this? But it sounds like a great solution.

Yes I am using PP II. I had not gone higher than the top holes yet. I thought that someone might have an idea on continuity of repeating the rise. A toothpick was my thought.

STEAK KNIFE: Vintage Chicago Cutlery 103S I have 18 of them. I am trying to put a 19 deg. edge on them. I am using Top holes. As for horizontal setting .... any where from flush against the scales to A.5. I have used spacers and w/o spacers.
PROBLEM: Rubbing against the clamp. What can I do? I do not want to put a 24Deg angle on the blades.



PARING KNIFE: Shun DM-0700 3 1/2 paring knife - Essentially the same as above but I am trying to get under 18 deg.
PROBLEM: keep hitting the clamp.

Ideas / SOLUTIONS are most appreciated.

Thanks

Great idea. I put soap on mine ... just run the treads of the screw over a bar of soap. It's like a combination of oil and wax.

OMG I hope you get it soon!

If you don't I'll lend you mine so you can sharpen your knife before you slit your wrists.

((sorry bad joke)) ... I am sure you will get it an I am CERTAIN you will love it.

"Clay's really cool shirt."

or clay's really SHARP shirt

If I walked up behind my wife with a knife . . . . . . . she'd turn around and shoot me with her gun !

SOLUTION: Buy more knives. Problem solved.

Thanks. I have an old piece of leather. I might mount it and try it with the FLITZ. I have some old knives that are carbon steel. They were junkers that were someones throw-aways at a garage sale. I think I'll try to strop the entire blade side to clean it up then onto the WEPS for an edge and back on the FLITZ STROP.

Thanks again.

You WILL be VERY pleased. It is a wonderful system only surpassed by the quality of the people with whom you will deal.

To answer your questions, Yes it will solve loose knife issues and the real beauty of the system is that if you want to repeat the edge again it is simple because all of the key mounting variables are indexed so you merely write them down (a spreadsheet template is on the site) and repeat the setup.

IMHO, the system is more like a scientific instrument than a tool. It is precise and permits exact repetition so long as one takes the time to record all of the settings.

The best personal example I can give you is that I did 8 steak knives ... repeated the settings each time and I now have 8 identically sharpened knives. Because I recorded the settings I can touch them up and repeat the same edge. They all look and cut the same.

You will enjoy your experience with Clay and the WEPS crew. You will also enjoy, learn (and hopefully teach) the crowd on this forum. They are great as well.

Hello.

What type of knives will you be sharpening?