PhilipPasteur wrote:


Funny you should mention those particular stones just now. Today I placed our first order for those stones fitted to our handles. Just need to wait about six weeks now.

MarkMassie wrote:


I have a couple of small changes to implement (already incorporated into the drawings) that I'll want to test when the new 3d printer comes in. Assuming I like the changes, lead time should be about 2-3 weeks, so sometime before the end of June.

Razoredge wrote:


I don't have pricing yet... I should have it sorted out after we get back from Blade.

Missing from the images are the degree markings along the curved front plate, our logo and an actual knife in there. The image is of a prototype, so there may be some minor design changes though the technology is well set.

We're officially unveiling this sharpener at Blade this year, but I thought it would be good to show it here on the forum first. This unit has been under development for a while now (a couple of years) and has some really cool features like one step knife mounting and one step angle setting. It also features floating jaws so that the knife is always centered and FFG blades are a non-issue since the jaws both move to conform to the grind geometry. Here are some sneak peek images:







It is so much fun to use - simply step up to the machine and set the knife in the slot, pull the lever to clamp it, move the degree bar to set both sides simultaneously and start sharpening. The micro-adjustments are still available and the regular Wicked Edge stones fit.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


That's a good idea. If you go with a split die, I'd be very curious to hear how it turns out.

loft wrote:


The washer goes between the head of the screw and the Granite/QuartzStone/Paperstone base. The rubber side goes against the base and the metal side against the screw head.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


I don't have a lathe here at the shop and I think that's what I'd need to do it properly, there is simply too much material to remove. Now that I'm thinking about it, I was able to thread rods once by putting them in the drill press and spinning them while the die was clamped to the table, but I don't recall the steel and how wear resistant it was.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Hey Phil,

I replied in the other thread. You're right that 1/4-28 is the thread to use. I haven't had much luck getting the steel rods through the die either. It works just fine with our old fiber reinforced plastic rods, they're soft enough, but the steel is another story.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


I did, though can't seem to locate it now. If I remember correctly, you're asking what the threading is on the guide rods that go into the ball joint. You're correct that they are 1/4-28 threads. I haven't had much luck hand threading any rods either.

MarkMassie wrote:


Great question Mark. It's not a design change, just a proposed accessory. The idea is to use the little collar attachment (in between the guide rod assembly and the blue base) as a positive stop to be able to use stones of differing thickness and repeatedly hit the exact same angle without having to use an angle cube. The basic procedure is as follows:

1. Slide the stop collar (SWAT Jig as named by Curtis) onto the degree bar in between the blue base and the guide rod assembly.
2. Set the angle with the thinnest stone you plan on using.
3. Take the stone off the guide rod and rest the inside of one of the plastic trays against the inside edge of the guide rod assembly (you would use the inside of the Blue Collar if you're using the Basic Kit or Pro 1 and you would use the inside edge of the upper portion of the L-Bracket if you're using the Pro 2 set up.)
4. Slide the stop collar over until the pin makes contact with the face of the stone.
5. Lock the stop collar in place.

To change stones and keep the same angle, loosen the guide rod assembly, align the inside of the plastic tray to the inside of the guide rod assembly, then slide the stone and guide rod assembly over to the stop collar until the surface of the stone contacts the pin on the stop collar. Lock the guide rod assembly in place. You should now have the exact same angle as you did with the previous stone, regardless of thickness.

Clearly I'll need to write better instructions along w/ diagrams once we're ready to release it. Hopefully you get the gist for now.

Mikedoh wrote:


The knob sitting just above the degree bar locks the collar's location on the degree bar. The one at the end of the angled portion allows you to lock down the position of the steel rod for further adjustability.

cbwx34 wrote:


Maybe...

jendeindustries wrote:


Yep! I've never actually seen or used one on the EP, but Curtis was kind enough to firmly shove me along to designing this variation on the idea. The testing I've done so far indicates it should be really nice for anyone wanting to use stones of varying thicknesses.

No guesses yet?

CBW isn't allowed to guess since he's been the main engine behind this project.

I had originally been thinking of a silicon or rubbery material but I think the sharp edges of the stone trays would tear it up and I agree that it would pick up a lot of dirt and debris. Lately I've been thinking of using the same polypropylene that we use for the trays - it's reasonably flexible and the colors would match up just right. I'll read through now to understand the different thoughts on open vs. closed ends etc...

PhilipPasteur wrote:

blacksheep25 wrote:


This is a nice idea, thank you! I've redrawn it as suggested:

blacksheep25 wrote:


This is a nice idea, thank you! I've redrawn it as suggested: