Welcome and have fun.

With that design you could close off both ends. Assuming length does not vary too much. If it does you will still either be short or hang over.

How do you load sprays on new strops? How many squirts does it take? Does the spray soak in or do you need to rub it around like paste? With cost of some sprays I figured I would ask before trying.

I would use these for Choseras, not for cross contamination, but for protection. If these are soft plastic/rubber, they would give some protection against dropping.

My advice, I would always go to 1000 diamonds before starting the Choseras. I have had cloudy places after the Choseras (but never only on one side). Just a little stopping brings the shine right out. I always lap every time, just few passes of stone on stone with water to make a little slurry. I figure this also helps keep them flat.

Are you letting them get too dry? I don't so I don't know if that would cause your problem. Maybe someone else can speak to what happens when they get too dry. By dry I mean I keep them moist to the touch, but not dripping wet.

This is all good discussion. But let's be honest. It's not a question of one vs. another. It's a question of which one first. You know will you get both at some point.

If you are currently satisfied with the results you are getting with the current arms: i.e. angle settings, feel, etc. then stick with them.

That's right. With the WEPS there is more than one way to sharpen a knife. I take some to 1k chosera, some to 5k, some to 10k some just ceramics only. So I have a lot of flexility.

The other thing to remember with only getting one or two sets of Choseras is you can always add more later.

KenBuzbee wrote:


.... and mine too

Hey Mark,

(Since you have the ceramics) I would strongly suggest the 800/1k set. If you do a good job with 1k diamonds and even add the ceramics the 800 will pick up nicely. You get a mirror finish with the 1k Chosera. (some stropping may be needed to bring the shine out, but 1k leaves it super smooth). I often stop at 1k, stop with 5/3.5 and done. To go higher is really just chasing perfection in my opinion. I do chase perfection sometimes on special occasion knives. But for knives I actually use 1k Chosera is enough. With light pressure the 1k is near or at perfection with the naked eye. Like Ken said I can see scratch after 10k with a loupe. They are just a little smaller and farther apart. The 1k is my favorite stone, the feel and feedback is just awesome.

If you didn't have ceramics and sharpened more for EDC use I might say get the 400/600's.

If you get 2 sets, the get 400/600 and 800/1k. The 400/600 really cut well and I don't think you get as much out of 2k/3k as the 400/600's. If you get custom made paddles I would suggest a 1k for sure then get the other stones spaced around 1k skipping a grit of so. I.e. 400,600, 1k, 3k. or 600,1k, 3k, 5k.

Also I think 800/1k are good for touch ups if you don't severely dull the knife.

I do the same thing. I try to stop each stroke in a different place each time to keep everything smoothed together.

I my opinion I find the stone doesn't cut as well when going with long strokes, especially when the grind lines are parallel.

I posted in the Large post. See there.

If you are looking for a folder then I do like the Benchmade Adamas 275, or a Griptillian, not as expensive, different steel options, lighter weight.

Thinking outside of the box - Consider a folder, especially as knife #3. (unless you hate caring folders while camping)

I would go with this (strictly as a folder) Benchmade Adamas 275.

D2 steel, enough blade, Could serve as camp knife. Comes down to if you want a folder or only fixed blades.

My 2 cents (never hunted or skinned elk)

6" Ritter RSK Mk2 - Add the micarta handles. Can adjust the weight distribution. I good bushcraft knife and slicer. I like this one for blade shape and length. Or anything else in the Becker Knife and Tool line. They all have the same handles (can upgrade to micarta), all the same steel, just different blade lengths/shapes.

4.5" ESEE 4 I like it for a medium sized knife. I see you already have some ESEE's on the list.

Why stop at 2 knives? My rule is always carry an extra one. If think you need 2 take 3.

Some light weight, smaller options (as backup and small tasks)
ESKABAR in D2 steel, they also make it 1095.

Ritter RSK MK5 Very small, a true backup. If you have 2 knives already may not be worth the weight trade off.

If you think others won't have sharp knives buy a crowd pleaser (like an ESEE4) sharpen it and sell it during the trip. Make a few bucks and you won't have to carry it the entire trip.

Like the tree too!

Try this. Hold a flat edge against the blade (if you have space) like metal ruler. Use the angle cube to measure.

Or lay a square on the base and see how it lines up to both sides of the handle.

Haven't tried this, but it may be possible to use something like an angle finder. You would need a perpendicular line or something on the base to reference against.

I think Phillip said about all I would have said.

It also depends on how hard you use your knife and what you cut with it. In the end you can't really change that so like Philip said it is what it is.

I sometimes carry 2 knives or carry a different knife for specific tasks. I have a smaller, higher quality steel I keep razor sharp an use for light duty cutting tasks. It stays sharper longer. For heavy duty and harder cutting tasks (where I know I will dull it faster), carry a larger knife with a more obtuse angle. I use utility knives for mass cardboard cutting and when I need to do work that I would consider abusive on good knifes (i.e. scraping paint off of steel, etc.)

Good point Pie.

Consistency is the key to everything with WEPS. Avoiding cutting your fingers, not cutting strops, getting a good edge, getting a great edge.

Welcome to the forum.

Don't get discouraged with your first few knives. I have never heard of anyone that didn't get great edges after 5 to 10 knives (counting that fact of stone break in). Your learning curve may vary, but you will get there.

Tomatos are tricky. A "toothy" edge helps a lot, especially to start the cut through the skin as you are talking about.

Some kitchen knife makes make "tomato" knives which are serrated edges, like thiner bread knives.

A dull knife will not slice tomatoes well at all. But a toothy factory edge will go right through. Once you get through the skin the rest is like warm butter. So a toothy edge is good for tomatoes it will not glide though phone book paper.

To get through the first part of the skin try more slicing action, less pushing.

The best is when you have an edge that will slice and slice as thin as a sheet of paper.