Very nicely done!

X2

I realize that you textured and lapped the ceramics for the empirical data they produced on an edge.
Do you have any ideas on these "resurfaced" ceramics in routine sharpening? Would they be sort of a kinder, gentler diamond stone now?

Also curious as to the behavior of your 50 diamond now?

Thanks for the experimental show and tell.

Uh oh, now I'm in Dutch!

Thanks Phil. I now get it.

Mark 76
"And the chicken is dead."

Translation please.

Don't know how the account merge happened. Tomorrow/tonight there is a software upgrade, maybe that's the cause?

Call WEPS and ask them about a price for the parts you need.

Christopher Walken would be proud.

That is really cool.
Thanks for the update

I tried the rubber from grip holders to open jars. Didn't feel it worked well at all. Things moved a lot.

Question here.

If one has a primary bevel at say 20/side, and makes a micro bevel at say 22/side. . . . When the 22 bevel becomes dull, does the
20 bevel shine thru?

Hope this makes sense

Clear contact paper is pretty good stuff.

Phil
They are just a slotted screw. A little bit of a pain to use, but I've always figured I could just snip off a portion of the nylon and leave it in the thread channel as a buffer between the two metal screws

Bought them at Lowes or Homedepp.

I replaced mine with a nylon screw.

Some use a small piece of chamois or a small piece of leather from an old glove.

I defer to the gurus on here, but I'd mark the edge with a sharpie to find the current angle and use that.
Many people on here seem to prefer the edge left by the 1000 diamond for hunting and fishing.
Even of they produce a shiny show blade, and it's a knife the use, the will make a micro bevel with the 1000 diamond
because of how it performs.

You could also add a micro bevel , say if sharpened at 18/side, make a micro bevel at 20/side which would make sharpening quicker next time.

Hope that's some help

I don't think there is a short answer here, other than grits ain't grits. Despite having similar grit sizes, different materials will perform differently. Some materials break down into smaller sizes and have more of a polishing effect. So the extent to which a material maintains its original shape / size will make a difference on the sort of edge it produces.

That's the very basic gist of it. Lots to consider here.

www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=c...d=5051&Itemid=63

Am sure your customer will be pleased.

Thanks GeoC

I recall the former discussion. This description offers a slightly different visual image. I'll give the stone tape a go should I run into
difficulty.

I used a little fertilizer for the first time in an area I replanted last fall. Everything worked out, but found out I did most things wrong. I like clover.
It's ability to fix nitrogen is just great. I seeded with both clover and grass. Not supposed to seed clover in fall. I put down some fertilizer because I did nothing more than rake stone out and level the area. Not supposed to fertilize when you plant clover and grass, gives the grass a chance to crowd out the clover.

A different area I planted last spring, I put down a layer of humus before seeding with clover and grass. It is very happy.

I know, most think of clover as a weed. I guess it's a version of "weed and feed" that I used then.