Interesting topic,
I have done 100 + knives or more only about 10 that I pushed all the way to the Chosere.
I tend to see the right side take the refined look before the left. I assumed it was because I am right handed.
The right side is under better control. What I have learner is to watch the left side closser.
Will spend a number of strokes more if needed on the left, with the Ceramic and Chosere stones.
I also agree with the others, stropping tends to clean up the difference. I have the Rue w/ .125 spray
And Nano cloth, most of the time the .5 with the leather is the one I use for those last few passes.
For some reason that does the trick.

James

Welcome aboard,

The waiting for it is hard, we have all experienced some of it.
WE is a growing new business with a Hot product. They have always
Delivered for me, I am sure they will for you.
It is a neat tool, you will be amazed what it will do to a knife.

James

Welcome aboard,

Look forward to reading your post. The Wicked Edge is a unreal tool, that can produce unreal edges.
The WE Forum and Wiki has a wealth of knowledge to look over. It is a great group, that are willing to share. I think you will enjoy the ride.

James

It is worth the wait.
Like most, I to had a couple months befor my kit shipped . Last week I ordered some additional stones.
They let me know it would be a few week back order.
They asked me , do you want to confirm the order and have the card billed now so when the stones arrived they could be shipped. Or did I want to wate till they come in and pay. If I wait they would confirm I still wanted them before billing and shipping.
So I know they will offer the option of billing you later, me I want mine shipped yesterday, like everyone.
They have a great product, they truly stand with there product, to make sure it is right. It will produce a even , sharp edge like nothing else.

As I said before -- worth the wait!

Welcome to the Forum,

Like the others I use the Blue Painter tape, as it leaves no residue.
Most of the time I use a stamp size peace of eye glass micro cloth. it is thin, soft and hold firm.

Do not over tighten the vice, once the top is snug, the bottom is applying a mechanical advantage.
You might place a tape patch on the inside where the bottom bolt pushes against the side.

James

Nice Start Clay, If the case has wheels, as your sample does, the the base at the bottom would be best. The lower the weight the better on wheels. I agree with others it would be better in the middle if I had to pick it up by the handle. Sound like you covered the full set of slots for stones, would like to see a few more open slots, for expansion. The packing in the case, does not look like a soft foam, is it more the molder hard material and could it be modified by the owner or would we be making a big mess to touch it?

thanks
James

Clay, Do you think the hardness. 68 / 70 RC. Is a factor in why the diamonds work so well?
The new edge look incredible!

Looking back at the thread "Case for Wicked Edge" about 7 weeks back page 5 bottom (#8127) user Dicamp posted 3 photos of a Pelican 1600 case. This was the best setup I have seen, it was a big case, but every part had a place. The base and vice Pro 2 placed on top upside down. Every part easy to get to without removing the packing. Plent of room to expand as you add more stones... Very clean...

Clay, I look forward to seeing what version WE might offer.

James

Excellent job, the curvature is so clean you would never know it was repaired. Thanks for sharing, it shows the WE has additional capabilities .

Very Impressive, have never seen anything like that before. Any idea what type of wood?

Bump to get it back up front.

* !!! THANK YOU !!! *

For all of your work, time and information that all of you put into the WE Forum.

Advice Please,
I already have the 5/10k. Stones. Will be adding some latter in the year, as these are a little $$$$. You guys have used them, which do you use the most? What would you advise as the best to add? I agree with all of you, they are great to work with!

As I first started with the strops, I did not understand how different they are from the stones.
Some of my movements produced some slices in the leather.
The term bumpy fits, it was not a smooth stroke they had become bumpy.
How to get them back smooth, how to remove the edges of the cuts and not destroy the strop?
Sandpaper on a hard surface came to mind.
I had 400 and 600 grit sandpaper used when I made hummingbird bands to polish the band edge so it
does not hurt the bird’s leg.
Taped the sandpaper to a bamboo cutting board and worked the strop back and forth.
It leveled the strop back out and it removed the edges around the cuts in the leather.
The strops were smooth as before.

So in my case I did not sand that much off. I cleaned them with alcohol, let them dry and reapplied the diamond paste, good as new.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Phil's note above has good advice on how to repair the leather strops. I have used what he describes with sandpaper and got very good results. Kevin with each knife you will get better, and welcome to the forum.

Something NEW I just tried.

I had been using the blue painter tape to protect the blade from the vice. This past weekend I had a old Eye Glass cleaning cloth, real fine microfiber. I cut a small stamp size patch. It's very soft, very thin, and held the blade in the WE Vice with NO play at all. This is something new I'll have in my case.

James

DKamp wrote:


Nice setup, DKamp.-- This is one of the best setup cases I have seen. Looks like it easy to get out and start using, without having to remove parts of the cases interior foam. The bit large is great, Growing room!
Thanks for making the extra effort to share your photos !!
Much appreciated
James

cbwx34 wrote:


Doing the same thing with balsa, have keep the same angle. One difference, the balsa to me requires a very light stroke. Leather to me is more resultant, the balsa wood fibers can compress which will most likely give the balsa a smother surface with use. Balsa is such a soft wood material, where the leather surface is going to keep it's original grain texture. Light strokes is a key in using both, the balsa make me see just how light I can push the blade. Personal, I like using the balsa a lot!

Welcome aboard Brian,

It does have a way of making us happy, as we see the new edge redefine itself. My first few knifes to sharpen were also old Chicago Cutlery they are excellent to start breaking in the stones. It is amazing to see the bevel on the old blades go from horrible to better than the factory new edge. You may have to add ceramic stones or finer to get to mirror effects.

Welcome to the Forum Mike,

The Angle Cube is well worth adding to your system. You record the exact angle for the knife, the angle will change some from Diamond stone to ceramic to stropping, it may not be much change, but; the Cube will confirm the settings. When you re-touch a knife, with the cube your back to the same angle in seconds. I had one knife I made duller after using the strops, the angle changed just enough for the strop to roll or round the edge. From that I learned - use very light pressure, and check the angles.