I had been thinking of a cheap quick and effective means of protecting the ball joints of the new arms from filings etc. The disc over the joints did not seem to offer any real protection.

I came up with the idea of canabalising the fingers off a heavy duty rubber glove.

* remove the arms from the WE
* remove the arm from the arm bracket
* cut the finger off the glove at the base of the finger
* snip a small hole in the top of the finger and slide it down the arm so that the top of the finger sits above the arm lock nut
* when in place snip a small hole for the micro adjust threaded end
* slide the glove over the micro adjust threaded end
* reassemble the arm
* repeat for other arm
* reassemble WE







Tony

Tom

The lapping film Richard is using is 3M and is aluminium oxide except for the 5 micron which is silicon carbide. I have spoken to Richard at some length about his issue and it appears that there are 1000 grit scratches that are not being removed. I have used the same progression with the same film and achieved a pretty much mirror finish with no visible scratches under 30x magnification. I did try going from 1000 grit to 5 micron and found scratches left over, hence the back track to 15 micron which seemed to make all the difference.

Tony

I found a Tactix 320000 storage box in the local Bunnings hardware for A$7. It has removeable partitions that allow for a degree of cusotomisation. As you can see from the photos it can fit all the stones, a Wixey and other bits and pieces like it was made for the WE. I have lined the compartments with 3mm foam and use plastic strips to keep the stones separate.

The same box is available in the US www.dktools.com/tactix.htm

I have also constructed (perhaps constructed is a bit of an overstatement) from a piece of scrap timber and some 6mm aluminium rod a stone holder for the workshop after getting sick of having all my stones scattered around the WE when I am sharpening.

Tony

I tried the 1 and .3 micron lapping film yesterday. Great edge and finish.

I don't have a definitive answer to your question. It seems logical to suggest that grit is grit and that if you get there with ceramics or whatever then the result will be the same. However when you start talking about stones/films and strops then there are variables such as surface flexibility and pliability to take into account.

I too would be interested in an answer.

I found them a while ago after having bought some blank paddles and tape (well before my WEPS arrived) probably from the same place you did. Never tried this store myself, but they seem to be the cheapest I could find at the time.

I have never tried the tapes yet but might today and compare them with the strops. I am still toying with the idea of getting the 15k/30k Shaptons as I have 220, 1000, 4000, 8000 and 16000 Shapton glass stones which I love and will end up getting a 30000 Shapton glass as well

You may want to check out

www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/mer..._Code=&Search=3m

who sell by the sheet and would seem cheaper and go down to .3 micron

Yes - the 5000 is pretty much the same as the 1600 gritwise, I can't say what difference (if any) the 5000 would give over the 1600 as I have not ever really looked, but the 10000 sure does. It would be good if Naniwa did an 8000 as it would give a good progression from the 1600 and then to the 10000.

I wonder if Clay would consider do a 10000 only Naniwa Chosera to cater for those with the 1200/1600 given that 1600 is pretty much 5000

Don

I love the Naniwa Choseras. I have the 800/1000, 2000/3000 and 5000/10000, which is (a bit of) overkill, but that is just me. The 10k gives an amazing finish and edge. I can drop an A4 page end on from 150mm (6" to you) to a horizontal blade a get a 7mm cut (a touch more than 1/4"). I am thinking that this should be a good (and cheap), easily repeated, quantitative standard test of sharpness. What do you think?

The Naniwas are not cheap, but you have done all the hard work with the lower grits, so they are giving the final finish and so should last a long while and give good value for money in the long run (convinced yet?). It would be hard to get a finish and edge like this with anything else other than the WEPS. I showed a chef a Global knife I had done with the 10k and his first word as he inspected the blade was "wow". I also suspect that he did not think that I had done it until he saw the WEPS in action himself on one of his own knives. (Needless to say he bought one)

Tony

Hi - I'm Tony from Canberra Australia. I run a sharpening business called Sharpfection and am the exclusive WEPS dealer in Australia.

I like most people here waited from early August til December to get my WEPS - but was it worth the wait!!! Also like most people here I had tried all sorts of sharpeners without any great success and I am just amazed at how simple, elegant and efficient the WEPS is and the edges it can produce.

Being (a bit) obsessive I got the WEPS with stones from 50/80 through to 5000/10000 Naniwa Chosera, diamond paste down to .5 micron. I have been so impressed with the 10000 water stones, I have not even tried the diamond paste yet.

I've been lurking round this forum since August, but now that I have my WEPS and used it in anger, I thought it was high time I should appear.

I've learnt heaps from this forum already and appreciate the sense of community and the willingness to help. I hope that I can make the same contribution.

Tony