Welcome

I agree. I left a link to this site hopefully more curious people will come and get decent information

Hi people

Benn awhile since I was last on. Hope everyone is well.

Since Wicked Edge is not in the article they sure are losing their edge.

www.wired.com/reviews/2013/03/knife-sharpeners-gallery/

P.S. Sorry Mods wrong place can you please move to the off topic section.
Thx
Monk

As BLD said Vinegar takes forever at elevated temperatures.

Below are a couple of Youtube videos where you can see the effect on different grades.

Yep, Hydrochloric Acid (HCL) could do the job a little faster than vinegar, as it will dissolve the iron off the ceramics, is easier to get hold of and way safer than H2SO4.

Wiki Same acid as in our stomachs and used in pickling steel.

Safety glasses and rubber/latex gloves to be safe.

Just thought about it ... Coca-cola has phosphoric acid in it and that could also work as the metal in the ceramics is very fine.

Yep H2SO4 in it's concentrated form can be bad, cos when you add it to water it can get very hot and or "splash/jump" out. H2SO4 can be found in car batteries and if you have ever got that on your clothes you can kiss those good bye. Always add acid to water while stirring the water. This helps to prevents the hydrophilic "jumping out" of H2SO4. I agree 100% not for the hobby/garage level.

Try vinegar 1st as that is prob the safest.

Well I have not tried but I would think normal swimming pool acid should work to help clean the ceramic stones. The pool acid is Hydrochloric acid (HCl). You do get them in different strengths and of course with any chemicals wear gloves. Do NOT get the HydroFLOURIC acid (HF), as that is VERY VERY dangerous.

Also I think the ones that they sell to clean the steam cleaners could also work. Even vinegar might do the trick. Vinegar is also acidic.

Welcome to the forum

Since there was talk of modifying the handles to be able to change to different stones on the same handle. Maybe you could look at making them longer and or /wider. Most full size stones are much longer and since the Shapton / Chosera stones are cut from the full size stones there will be less wastage. Maybe optimize the size to limit offcuts from the full stones. This will also allow for more upstroke/downstroke per pass. Most guys have quite big hands and even on most videos the handles look positively small in some people hands.

Cost of stones should not really change due to less waste.

+1. Should be quicker and "cheaper" to make a continuous channel.

I am sure happy for you and that you got the vindication for all the hard work and effort you put in. Also as a community to see the product evolve from it's original form is heartening. That speaks volumes for the dedication and enthusiasm you still have for your product.

Compared to other similarly priced products on the market that have not changed in any major way since they were 1st launched.

Hey Clay

Congrats on the WIN at the show. Glad to see the suggestions we made for the joints were able to be implemented.

I know this is a vastly inferior product but I thought the nylon bushing or the way it is held maybe you can use a similar method to hold the end rod bearing. Check out 2 min 30 secs. for how the bushing is held

Thanks

Been awhile since I been on went to the accessories to see if there was one listed.

Bump

Hi people

What I do to compensate for the slow speed is I open the index from the main forum. I then see which of the topics have new posts. I then right click on the green (x new post) and open in a new tab. I then go to that new tab and do the same for the topics. That way while I am busy reading the 1st topic all the others are loading in the background in other tabs. Yes when you have a backlog and there is more than one page you need to catch up on it is back to the slow speed.

Congrats mark76.

Clay I was thinking the end rod bearing would go into where the linkage is so no real mods have to be done to the unit. To basically replace the black part and the other joint.

Hope it is ok I used one of your pic's
BassLakeDan

Even an end rod bearing that can go 360 degrees front and back and limited left to right movement.
www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit12070

Clay I found that while looking at some underwater photog stuff.

www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-103598-1-4-Ball-Joint
www.westmarine.com/buy/products/15269-ball-joint-1-4-28-1.html

I would think even std ball joints would work well as you really only need to move in one plane.

www.nbb-bearing.com/spherical-plain-bearing/20081181469.html

Tolerences will be tighter and eliminate the linkage jamming up?

www.grouptornado.com/tr/node/161
grouptornado.com/en/content/ball-joints-...t-ball-studs-mounted

www.directindustry.com/prod/chiavette-un...ts-28993-419678.html

or a smaller version of this
www.asiabearings.com/Rod-End-Bearings/Th...Rod-End-SQZ5-RS.html

These guys seems to have a huge selection
www.midwestcontrol.com/part_family.php?id=1

A bit expensive but similar to these
pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/madler-gmbh/m...929-171343-_392.html