Whew! Leo, thats quite a setup, makes my little KEFs and Onkyo 7.1 feel humble.
Did you use a spectrum analyzer to set up your crossovers or determine them by speaker secifications?
Also do you plan to match the center channel tweeter(s)with youre Dynaudios?
Wish I could hear them.

Careful, LOL, I think audiophiles are at least as nuts as knife people!!

Glen

Hello Leo,
That is one interesting knife!
Wish I had the budget to afford it.
I wonder what REX 121 would be like in a Gyuto.
I saw in another forum you may sell a Fallkniven PXL.
How would you rate the 3G steel?
Isn't it great how far the Wicked Edge has come?
Seems like yesterday but it's been 2 years since you, I and a maybe a couple others were singing the praises of the WE at Knife Forums and we had only the original basic kit!

Kindest Regards,
Glen

"I thought this comment from Cliff Stamp might be of interest (posted here with permission..)

[i]"The earliest I can remember this being discussed was on rec.knives in 96/98 as Mike Swaim was regrinding edges to lower angles and leaving them with very low grit finishes both stones and even files. It became obvious then that the knife was acting just like a saw in that you could easily see the influence of the rake of the teeth both in terms of edge aggression and in edge retention. The lower the grit finish the more pronounced this effect can be seen. As the grit raises dramatically this disappears as once you get into the micron level finish there is little slicing aggression anyway it has to be a pure push cut. The simplest way to think on it is to think of it like a saw and just use a 3.5 tpi saw and a 12 tpi saw and now imagine a one million tpi saw (that would be a micron level finish)."



Totally agree, I have adopted the push cut method and don't think there could be a device more suited to directional bias than the WEPS. The higher the edge refinement the less the effect.
Japanese style bolsterless knives intimidated me until I started push cuting, then it made perfect sense.

Glen

Thanks Clay, I thought I was nuts for a while.
Wayne,
I struggled for years wasting money on devices and still couldn't manage to get a knife "really" sharp.
Then I got the Wicked Edge and the first knife I tried was shaving sharp!
Now I routinely do micro bevels and asymetrical edges (popular on some Chef's knives)
Rest assured, this is the real deal.
I've never looked back.
Let us know how you do.

Glen

My first Subway straws were too small to fit over the rods. According to another thread I was the only one to have this problem.
Just got a second set, still too small.
My Wicked Edge is at least 2 years old (maybe older), does anyone know if the rods were ever slightly larger in diameter?
As of now I have pretty much decided I don't have enough play to worry about.

Glen

I got Subway straws and they are too tight to slide over the rods.
I don't think they would even go on with lube.
Anyone else have this problem?
Glen

Since the more obtuse angle is the final cutting edge, why not start with that angle and convex from that point?
Example; 20 deg cutting edge taken to burr, then just a few strokes each of say 18,16,14 being careful NOT to take them to burr.
Less metal removed, and much faster.
Why remove the edge you just put on?
The only trade off I see would be maybe slightly less precise. (appearance, not performance)
If you start with the lower angle 14 to burr then progress to burr up to 20 you are removing more of the metal and work you just performed.

Correct me if I'm missing something or read it wrong.

Glen

Good report Leo, nice to catch up with you my friend! Hope you are doing well.
I haven't tried convexing yet but so far my Gyutos, (chefs) knives hold up very well with an 11.5 to 12 deg. angle.
Of course my knives don't get the rigors of outdoor use like yours! And I probably get some micro convexing from finishing with the polishing tape mounted to the leather strops.
But I will try it on my Spyderco ZDP189 Delica, which is my EDC, the next time it needs sharpening.


Glen

My understanding of Japanese knife steel is White #1 which has virtually no additives, White #2 has minimal additives Blue #1 with slightly more additives Blue #2 again more additives and Blue Super with the most additives of any.

These additives are put in to increase durability, add toughness (not to be confused with hardness)and more corrosion resistance, although none are stainless.

The name is said to come from the color of the paper the steel is traditionally wrapped in.
So the trade offs go from White #1 which is said to be able to get the sharpest but has the least edge holding ability then on up the "ladder".

Keep in mind, these steels are all excellent carbon steels and the differences are very slight, maybe not even noticeable for a novice like myself.
There are also many opinions on which is the best depending on the quality of heat treating, and the type of knife, or individual user.
If a metalurgist is viewing this I would welcome any corrections as this is a simplified explanation.

Glen

Monk69bl wrote:


This would be Aogami steel which means "Blue", it could be Aogami 1 or 2, very similar. It would almost certianly not be Aogami Super at this price point.
This is great value for Blue steel if the heat treat is good.

Glen

I'm questioning the method or need for deburring with the WEPS.
I had been reading about the importance of deburring on some of the knife forums.
Always wishing to improve I got the felt pads and saved some cork from wine bottles and had at it.
I don't think I've improved my edges, in fact I think they may be less sharp than before.
Any one have experience with this?
I've been cutting into the felt and cork while still clamped, moving the felt or cork instead of the knife.
Should I skip the deburring with the WEPS?

Glen

I'm very happy with my Paperstone.

Glen

Spyderco Ladybug

Glen