Here's a review vid I did on the WEPS... go to 19:22 in the video and that is how I clamp in FFG knives... works well enough to pretty match up previous angles.



Looking good though! I would just keep practicing... you will def. get the hang of it! Also, your stones do need to break in (approx. 10 knives) before they perform optimally. Keep us posted!

Took some microscope pics today... I got it shaving pretty well actually, must have been doing something wrong before as I couldn't get it to shave at all hardly. Now it shaves pretty well, but still nowhere as good as my 1k diamonds which I can actually get to treetop arm hairs sometimes. It just seems like the 1k diamond stones produce a "keener" edge, what are your experiences when comparing the two?

I started on the choseras with a slurry from rubbing the two stones together to flatten them out, then I cleaned off the slurry and only used some water. For the last step I wiped the surface of the stones clean and just left the semi-dry stone to remove the burr while only trying to use the weight of the stone itself.

Looks good! Thanks for sharing! Did you micro-bevel at all or just leave it with the high polish and low angle?

kenbuzbee wrote:


That is very interesting... I must be doing something wrong. I haven't checked it under my USB scope yet, I will have to do that soon to see what is going on at the edge. I haven't really checked into it much on different knives, it was mainly my Para 2 in cts-20cp. I will advise after I can look into it more... I did let the stones soak for 10-15 minutes, and then lapped them on each other creating a slurry, then I sharpened with this slurry. For the final passes I use only the weight of the stone after I clean off the stone surface completely of all swarf and just keep it damp.


jendeindustries wrote:


I understand the theory Tom, and agree to an extent, but I would have to see some direct photos straight on the edge to give more validity to this theory. If it is still cutting hairs then the edge must be still "thin enough" at certain points in either the peaks or valleys of the edge of the edge. So how does it get this thin on a courser grit? I see in your pics where the diamonds seem to leave deeper scratches sure... but this is to be expected

Hey guys... I don't understand why I can get a knife edge shaving sharp off of my 200 grit diamond stones but not off of the 800 grit Choseras... Have any of you had this experience? What's the lowest grit you can go with Choseras and still get a shaving sharp edge?

Yeah I use that technique on stones, strops, etc. And it works great!

I will do multiple sweeping passes focusing more on the direction of the grind marks each pass will make than how many I do at what part of the blade... Hope that makes sense

So Clay, this is just a though I want to throw out there... see what you guys think... I could be way off base! lol.

Couldn't we do something like just make a single new modded vise? This way you wouldn't have to make a special vise just for low angles, and have special rod arms for low angles, etc? It would look something like this...


There would have to be some work done, but not too much... This is what would have to be done the way I see it... 1. It would have to be made out of a harder metal, preferably hardened steel. This would allow for MUCH greater strength, allowing for a thinner tip and overall vise. 2. You would just leave the base the thickness that it is, but make it solid and drill/tap a hole for a threaded screw - i.e. the same screw that is currently holds the vise in. 3. Drill a hole up through the center of the base and you should be up and running! The limiting factor only then is the actual blue base itself, but by my calculations, you could see 10* AT THE VISE TIP ITSELF easily.




Check out the thinness of my clamp vs the extension... would make a nice difference I would imagine.


As you can see, the existing screws would be small enough to thread nicely into the "new" vise.


I was just wondering if this would be less than having to mess with all of the other stuff... It may be more, but not much and totally worth it. I know I would just replace my existing vise with the new one and leave it that way if so. I will post updates to sharpening w/ the extension in the near future!!

Alright, continuing on...

So I also wanted to mount this knife identically into my regular vise to see how low I could go...


Could get down to about 13.9*. Could have gone a little lower, but I need 1-2 different sizes of screws so it doesn't get in the way.




Alright, so on to my final idea! =)

Ok so I finally got these pics uploaded! Please excuse the poor photos (had bad lighting)

So I started out with the edge mounted even to the base, with the edge being approximatley .5" off of the top of the vise.


As you can see in the below photo, I do have rod arms that are 2" longer than the stock rods and they worked beautifully! I would suggest 3"-4" though for optimal performance... I noticed that I had a 1/3 degree change if I took the paddle all the way to where the bottom of the stone was hitting the edge on this knife (i.e. the paddle was approximately 30% off of the rods).


For some reason, I was able to go lower on the left side than the right... I am thinking this is because this cheap kitchen knife was FFG and I didn't use anything to keep it centered like I normally do... it did lock up solid once I tweaked down on the vise though. I was able to get 7.65* on the left side before I hit anything with the stone. I believe the limiting factor here was the vise tip itself, due to the thickness of the top of the vise (which it has to be to maintain strength - more on this below)


I was only able to go to 11.65* on the right side before the stone hit the screw... I could have definitely gone lower without this getting in the way!


In the below photo you can see how the screws can definitely get in the way... I would suggest setting the screw heads in the vise if possible, much like on the original vise, and having 1-3 different sizes to come w/ the kit (would be super cheap to add in)

Had good results with mine! As stated, fit and finish are superb. I could get down to around 8* on one side but only 13-14* on the other side... I need to play around with more knives, as the one I sharpened was a ffg kitchen knife that I didn't tape.... Felt very secure though!

Anyway, I'll post some pictures hopefully tonight with suggestions.

Any update on this? Or was there not enough participating?

Very interesting Curtis... Well I got mine in so I'm planning on getting to it tonight! Will post photos and first impressions when done

I would also be willing to test one out for you clay... I already have some longer arms so I can sharpen longer blades and see how it holds up

Love it! My only concern is that the extension vise will bend at the top... This has been an issue in the past with the regular jaws, but this looks thinner... How does it seem to hold up clay?

ApexGS wrote:


I couldn't agree more Tom! That is one of the finest EDC edges around in my opinion...

Tj, in my opinion the perfect answer to your question is found in a micro-bevel (preferably with the 1k diamond). Let us know how it goes!

Scroll to 12:20 and you will see what I did... took about 30 seconds =)

Just google "wickededgeusa.com" and I think it will still pop up...

*edit: nevermind, apparently it's fixed. It was like this all the way up until last night if I recall correctly.

Mark, this is an outstanding idea! Thanks

MarkMassie wrote:


I had the same problem and this is exactly what I did... Took it on my belt sander for a short bit no problem now