If I want to match a factory bevel, be it reasonably symmetrical or not so much, I always "sharpie" the edges, set up the WEPS angles at a guess to match the edge, and then make a light pass or two with the 1000 grit stone to see how well it matches the edge. Then I adjust the angle to get the most coverage of the edges, i.e. the most ink removal on each side. The I go back and work the progression from coarse to fine.
Objects in closer are mirror than they appear
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