Assembling Your Pro-Pack II or Pro-Pack II Upgrade Kit
In order to install the new components for the Pro-Pack II or Upgrade Kit, you'll need to first disassemble part of the WE100 so that you can add the Riser and Extended Base Rod. The instructions below walk you through the process. The instructions are also available as a downloadable/printable PDF here: Assembling Your Pro-Pack II.
Remove the Base Rod and Fixed Vise Jaw from the sharpener Base by unscrewing the two Socket Head Cap Screws from underneath the Base Rod using the larger of the hex keys on the Vise Key.
Holding the Base with the logo facing you, place the Extended Base Rod underneath the Base, so that the engraved lines on the Extended Base Rod are facing up and the detents are facing you. Pass the 1/2â€ Socket Head Cap Screw through the Extended Base Rod and screw it into the Base. Only the hole on the right side of the Base (when logo is facing you) is threaded to accept the screw.
Place the Riser on the Base with the hole in the Riser aligned with the through-hole on the left side of the Base. Pass the 2â€ Socket Head Cap Screw through the Extended Base Rod, Base and Riser and screw it into the bottom of the Fixed Vise Jaw.
Slide the Ball Joint Assemblies onto the Extended Base Rod so that the Ball Joints face in toward the center of the sharpener, as shown in the figure above.
To mount your sharpener to the Mounting Plate, slide the the included washers onto the #10-32 Flat Socket Head Cap screws with the metal side facing the heads of the screws and slide those through the underside of the Mounting Plate. Thread them into the holes on the bottom of the blue sharpener Base and tighten them down with the smaller of the hex keys on the Vise Key. Affix the four adhesive backed rubber bumpers to the underside of the Mounting Plate at each corner.
Here are a few files that people have often found useful:
Professional Knife Sharpeners' Log - by Derek Williams
Knife Sharpening Log - by Keith Parker
Experiments in Knife Sharpening - by John D. Verhoeven
Finding the Sweet Spot - Positioning Your Knife from Front to Back
The easiest way to find the 'sweet spot' for a given knife is to mount the knife with the blade approximately centered in the clamp and then color in the entire bevel with a Sharpie marker. After setting the angle, lightly swipe one of the fine stones down the length of the blade to see where the marker is removed. If the stone is removing the marker from the edge along the straight portion but then dipping down into the shoulder toward the tip, you know you need to reposition the knife with the tip closer to the clamp. If the opposite happens - that the stone removes the marker at the shoulder of the bevel along the straight portion and then moves to the edge along the curve, then you need to reposition the knife with the tip further from the clamp. Once you find the sweet spot, measure your knife's position using the alignment guide and record the settings on the chart for future touch-ups.
The technique above will give you a consistent bevel throughout the length of the blade. For certain applications, you might want to position your knife differently so that you have either a more acute or more obtuse angle along the belly and out toward the tip. Below are some examples:
- Chef's Knife - I prefer to have the angle along the belly and out to the tip to be more acute so that it is sharper for slicing and detail work. I like the straight portion, especially at the heel to be a little more obtuse to better stand up to chopping.
- Tactical / Utility Knife - I prefer a more obtuse belly and tip for greater strength in cutting hard materials and thrusting.
- Boning / Fillet Knives - I like the belly and tip more obtuse Â for greater strength due to the constant contact of the belly and tip with bones.Â
To create a more acute edge along the belly and out to the tip, position the knife with the tip farther away from the clamp. To create a more obtuse edge along the belly and out to the tip, position the knife with the tip closer to the clamp.
*Even though the angle is remaining constant throughout the curve of the blade, Â you might experience a wider bevel toward the tip of the knife due to the way the knife is ground. As the belly of the blade curves toward the spine of the knife, the edge is often cut from thicker stock resulting in a wider bevel. An 1/8" thick blade with a 22Â° per side angle will have much smaller bevels than a 1/4" blade with the same 22Â° angles. On knives where the tip is inline with the spine and where there is not a distal taper, the effect is more pronounced. A wider bevel in this circumstance is a purely cosmetic concern since the angle is constant.
Field & Sport Quickstart
Please visit the Demo Page for a brief video of using the Wicked Edge Field & Sport.
Creating a Double Bevel
Double Bevel - (From Wikipedia)Â 'A back bevel, similar to a sabre or flat grind, is put on the blade behind the edge bevel (the bevel which is the foremost cutting surface). This back bevel keeps the section of blade behind the edge thinner which improves cutting ability. Being less acute at the edge than a single bevel, sharpness is sacrificed for resilience: such a grind is much less prone to chipping or rolling than a single bevel blade. In practice, double bevels are common in a variety of edge angles and back bevel angles.' A double bevel is depicted in the image below:
To create a double bevel using the Wicked Edgeâ„¢, it's easiest to create the back bevel first and then the edge bevel. Start by selecting the angle of the back bevel and working both sides of the blade until the back bevel reaches the edge. Progress through the stones to polish the blade as much as possible. Then move the collars out to the desired angle for your edge bevel. You can start with the 600 grit fine stones or even the 800 grit extra-fine stones. The edge bevel does not need to be large in order to be effective at improving durability.