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TOPIC: How do you set your pricing?

How do you set your pricing? 3 months 2 weeks ago #17594

  • tcmeyer
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Thanks, to both Josh and Zig for your very pragmatic explanations of life in the pro sharpening world.

Zig: I was really surprised at first that you reserve your WEPS for special jobs, but after getting about half-way thru my my current batch of clunkers, I begin to see the light. I've looked at your web site as well as your response here and have to wonder, what process do you normally use to sharpen chef's knives, if not the WEPS? Do you use a belt system with a jig? You do claim to put on a perfect V edge on knives which presumably are not done on the WEPS. How so?
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How do you set your pricing? 3 months 2 weeks ago #17597

  • zig
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tcmeyer wrote:
Thanks, to both Josh and Zig for your very pragmatic explanations of life in the pro sharpening world.

Zig: I was really surprised at first that you reserve your WEPS for special jobs, but after getting about half-way thru my my current batch of clunkers, I begin to see the light. I've looked at your web site as well as your response here and have to wonder, what process do you normally use to sharpen chef's knives, if not the WEPS? Do you use a belt system with a jig? You do claim to put on a perfect V edge on knives which presumably are not done on the WEPS. How so?

Chef knives I 80% work on belts.
Mild convex or V edge depending.
Like now, just got in with a batch of Shuns so will go V on them and will work them on the platen, not the slack.

For lower end Knives, they may get partially done on paper wheels, combo, some polished on wheels but sharpened on belts. Some metals debur on the paper wheels perfectly, some like leather. All depends what fits the job.

For me, love the WEPS, nothing more precise out there, but it has its place in the lineup.
Its a Lamborghini, I try not to offroad with it ;)
It'll take a $300 chef's knife for a ride, but not a $30 knife.

Standard Homeowner Block sets generally need to be done faster as they tend to be really beat up, worn, even ruined by other pull through machines.
I also find many Homeowner's block sets may have never been sharpened for years and are pretty much completely without an edge, I've tried to cut myself in front of the client and can't :)

I used to use a jig on the platen, but after so many knives, I go by eye now.
Can now see the difference of 20 degree and 15 degrees looking down vertically believe it or not, as well as adjusting for the depth of the knife.
Got to the point where I'm in the safe zone of a degree or 2 when I double check.
Angle cube on the knife works the same way as on the WEPS once you zero out the platen if you're ever unsure. Sharpie is another quick check on how steady your hand is.

Also, though it sounds unsafe, I never wear gloves and continuously feel the knife and bur development with my fingers between passes.
You can actually feel uneven parts of the knife, like if someone has been using a worn stone on them, the belly is last to bur. You work it till the bur is even from heel to tip.

Also, I strip the bur between belts, so as I go down in grit, I always feel if the bur buildup is even, over time its just second nature. You get familiar with the metals as well and know the amount of pressure and passes its gonna take once your primary is even.

I debur on the WEPS as well between paddles using those compressed cubes, I've found them to be extremely handy.

In the end, the finished product is better than the factory original and the clients are happy as can be.

Off topic ... another batch of Shuns with chips :( .... or dare I say bubbles as I now think the VG-10 consistently has tiny air pockets that expose themselves as metal wears. That's still my guess.
Frustrating as they are not cheap.

Update:
Those Shuns, I flattened out the edge till the chips/dips were gone.
Reprofiled and polished and scared myself as to how sharp the damn things can be.
Almost want to dull them before giving them to the client.
Chips gone, none reappeared in the process, and shaving/near popping sharp.

I bitch about the Shuns chipping, but damn, they can take an edge that normal folk should not handle :)
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Last Edit: 3 months 2 weeks ago by zig. Reason: Info
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How do you set your pricing? 3 months 1 week ago #17688

  • tuffybraithwaite
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tuffybraithwaite wrote:
for the 2014 fair season i have pretty much set all my prices here:

straight bladed knives - $1.00 per inch.

serrated knives: $3.00 per inch

high grade japanese knives: $2.00 per inch
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I WENT UP JUNE 1ST.
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