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Getting Started with the Wicked Edge

TOPIC: Securing the knife in the clamp

Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 1 week ago #17538

  • GibCurry
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razoredgeknives wrote:
Gib,

It has to be your technique. Which direction and motion do your use to sharpen?

Start with platen down, near the handle/heel. Then, light pressure up and toward the tip.

I may slightly be "pressing", or "rocking" the leading edge of the stone into the blade as I begin the stroke. That might "dig" the edge of the stone into the blade enough to not cause a physically measurable "dent" or mark but is enough to cause a difference in the reflectivity?!!?

That's my current working theory.
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"My goal is to be a good, practical knife sharpener. My dream is to polish molecules."
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Re:Re: Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 1 week ago #17539

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GibCurry wrote:
razoredgeknives wrote:
Gib,

It has to be your technique. Which direction and motion do your use to sharpen?

Start with platen down, near the handle/heel. Then, light pressure up and toward the tip.

I may slightly be "pressing", or "rocking" the leading edge of the stone into the blade as I begin the stroke. That might "dig" the edge of the stone into the blade enough to not cause a physically measurable "dent" or mark but is enough to cause a difference in the reflectivity?!!?

That's my current working theory.

Try a different stroke... Such as with the stone at the heel of the edge and all the way in the raised position... Then go down and toward the tip.

Or

You could keep your stone in contact with the edge the whole time while you use your normal motion. But keep it in contact on the return stroke... That way you will reduce your tendency to roll it
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Re:Re: Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 1 week ago #17540

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It's because of the little "triangle" area where the blade connects to the tang or back of the blade. It causes the stone to start slightly rotated in. If you don't correct this, it'll eventually start a little recurve in that area where you now see the "wave", or it will cut a small groove in the bevel. You can (in no particular order):

  • make sure the stone starts just in front of the triangle
  • start your stroke at the tip and move toward the heel,,, if the stone rides up, it won't cut into the edge.
  • grind the triangle flat as you sharpen - you can do this by making sure the stone is only touching the triangle as you start the stroke. (this may result in a wider bevel in that area)
  • cut a small sharpening choil (notch)
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Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 6 days ago #17542

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leomitch wrote:
Once you have decided where to place the knife using the ruler and the depth gauge, tighten the screws in this manner: ......

Leo, thank you for starting this thread....

Everyone... thanks for the input.... personally I have gained a lot...

Yesterday, after reading through and looking at the photos again, I couldn't wait to put a knife in the vise and walked around for an hour looking in every drawer I could think of that might have an unsharpened knife.

I was saved by some friends coming over for cocktails. They know I sharpen. I know they sharpen their own knives so it was a little bit adventurous but I offered to sharpen their cutlery and they said yes.

So, any new, breakthrough theoretical understanding gets to be put to the test in the real world soon!!

Thanks, again, everyone for all your work and willingness to share your understanding of this art & science.
~~~~

For Now,

Gib

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"Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

"My goal is to be a good, practical knife sharpener. My dream is to polish molecules."
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Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 5 days ago #17554

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I had a Eureka moment the other day sharpening freehand which I think translates to the WE .
I recently changed to starting the sharpening at the heel of the knife but I found often the bevel angle would shallow so it occurred to me too start just a little inboard of the heel now I think this would apply to the WE the stone needs to be in full contact with the bevel otherwise it will drop the angle it only say half the stone is on the bevel .
I think this should help a little.
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Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 5 days ago #17557

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tcmeyer wrote:
Every time I attempt to clamp a full-flat-ground blade using a compressible media, I end up with a slightly different vertical angle. So I have had to rely on using angle-cube readings off the blade sides to estimate the actual vertical axis.

I am not the only one who keeps ruminating on the issue and I really like the recent ideas and insights.

As I've had a knife in the vise and looking at the photos posted and trying the procedures the following idea popped into my mind's eye.

I glued a couple of bobby pins onto a line level. This isn't meant to be a finished product just a rudimentary attempt a visualizing an idea.



Knifeleveler1.jpg



The strange little device seemed to clip to the blade and "attempted" to self-center. Then, twist handle to adjust to level and tighten vise.

Knifeleveler2.jpg


OK. I don't consider myself a design engineer. Could a simple device be able to consistently grab a full flat grind? This prototype is not accurate.

If/when I have time I may try to improve this. Does it have any possibilities? If yes and you have mad manufacturing skills, go for it.
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Gib

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"Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

"My goal is to be a good, practical knife sharpener. My dream is to polish molecules."
Last Edit: 2 months 5 days ago by GibCurry.
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Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 5 days ago #17558

  • DannyBoy2k
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Your post brought back to mind another post I read recently where the poster had draped fishing line over the edge of the blade with weights on each end of the line. He would look at how the weights fell relative to the vise and wiggle the handle back and forth until the weights were even on each side. I just searched but wasn't able to find the post again right off the bat.

I keep hoping there is some way to get the floating vise on the professional model for our models. No more clamping issues then. I also keep wondering if I could fashion something like the KME sharpener's clamp (I think similar/same as professional model floating clamp) and replace my WE clamp with it.



~Dan
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Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 2 months 4 days ago #17565

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Gib:
I too, am waiting with bated breath for a kit to retrofit the symmetrical clamping of the Pro rig. I've got it pretty well figured out, and I'll kick the idea around a little to see if it develops. Meanwhile, here's what I do:

Clamp the blade in a vise (not necessarily your WE vise) so that you can use your AngleCube to measure the angular difference between the two flats. For instance, suppose my Spyderco Delica has a total included angle of 4.0 degrees. This means that when the blade is dead vertical, I should read 2.0 degrees on either side. So I use my AngleCube to set the angle of one of the flats to 2.0 degrees as shown in the pic below. Of course, you may have to loosen and tighten the vise several times while you're trying to find the right angle.

SettinganFFGbladetovertical.jpg
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Securing the knife in the clamp 1 month 2 weeks ago #17800

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So many great ideas in this...must go play with my new found knowledge.
“On one otherwise normal Tuesday evening I had the chance to live the American dream. I was able to throw my incompetent jack*ss of a boss from a fourteenth-story window.”

Owen Pitt – Monster Hunter International
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Re:Securing the knife in the clamp 1 month 2 weeks ago #17802

  • razoredgeknives
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tcmeyer wrote:
Gib:
I too, am waiting with bated breath for a kit to retrofit the symmetrical clamping of the Pro rig. I've got it pretty well figured out, and I'll kick the idea around a little to see if it develops. Meanwhile, here's what I do:

Clamp the blade in a vise (not necessarily your WE vise) so that you can use your AngleCube to measure the angular difference between the two flats. For instance, suppose my Spyderco Delica has a total included angle of 4.0 degrees. This means that when the blade is dead vertical, I should read 2.0 degrees on either side. So I use my AngleCube to set the angle of one of the flats to 2.0 degrees as shown in the pic below. Of course, you may have to loosen and tighten the vise several times while you're trying to find the right angle.

I do something similar Tom. So what I do is pretty much the same thing. i measure both "flats" on either side of the knife while it is locked in the vise, however, from this point I just adjust my rod arms on the base bar to compensate for the angle. So if my left side is measuring 2* and the right side is measuring 6* then I know that my blade is tilted with the edge to the left. Then I take the difference (4 degrees) and split it in half. From this point, whatever my target degree mark is (let's say 18 dps for reference) then on the left side I move it to 16* and the right side to 20*. This will give me a perfect 18 dps. Hope this makes sense =)

Gib, did you ever figure out the problem?
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