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TOPIC: How do you read the angle of an existing edge?

How do you read the angle of an existing edge? 1 month 6 days ago #18414

  • thefitter
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If you just want to dress up an existing edge how do you read the current angle of the edge?

Sharpie and trial and error?
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How do you read the angle of an existing edge? 1 month 6 days ago #18415

  • Geocyclist
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You got it.

Keep in mind factory angles may not be uniform side to side and tip to heel.
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How do you read the angle of an existing edge? 1 month 6 days ago #18416

  • thefitter
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Great no wonder I'm having so much trouble. That and the #@$%^&*! recurve!
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How do you read the angle of an existing edge? 1 month 6 days ago #18417

  • Geocyclist
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It is realistic to expect to have to work some areas of the blade more than others on a factory edge. By this I mean some areas will require more strokes to get a burr to form. Some areas will be matched up well and you get a burr straight away.

For example, on a traditional blade shape, I can match up the straight portion easily, but the belly or tip requires more work.

Never be afraid to use the sharpie marker to keep checking to see if every section is good. If you see a bad section work on it some more, check again.
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How do you read the angle of an existing edge? 1 month 6 days ago #18418

  • tcmeyer
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This isn't directed at thefitter, but I've noticed that a lot of new users seem to not know that virtually all factory edges are done by hand on belt sanders. While they may have a fixture that puts them on the right angle to start with, as they sweep into the belly of the blade, they are doing it strictly by eyeball. And every one of those guys has a different sweeping motion they've developed.

This is the point that Geocyclist is referring to. The factory angle is approximate and seldom, if ever, held with any accuracy. Although the factory might say their recommended angle is 20 dps, don't be surprised to find that one side is 18 degrees while the other is 22. You can adjust to match those bevel angles, but you'll find that the belly and point angles are probably different anyway. Or you can set your rig to 20 dps and watch as your Wicked Edge system creates the correct (factory recommended) bevels.

Oh, and I often use my Sharpie several times as I'm reworking that forward bevel. I'm looking to see how close I am to approaching the apex. I want to know exactly when to switch from a coarse profiling grit to the next dressing grit: usually going from 200 to 400 grit. I try to keep the coarse grits away from the apex, which might easily be chipped. For me, the 400 grit stones get at least twice as much use as any other stone. Create a 200-grit chip and you double or triple the work you'll need to do with the 400's.
Last Edit: 1 month 6 days ago by tcmeyer. Reason: More info
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