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TOPIC: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels???

Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8534

Hi guys,
Got my pro pack 2 a few days ago and I freakin LOVE IT! Making my first attempt at a convex edge on a large kitchen knife. Already kinda blew it because I thought I had the "sweet spot" via sharpie test, but as I got further into the re-profiling, I took away more of the shoulder at the tip than down by the heel (my edge is uneven). I decided to just chalk it up to a learning experience and go on so I took the edge to 17 degrees all the way through the fine ceramic. Now that I'm at this point, I need to make my 20, 19 and 18 degree angles. After all this rambling my question is, which stones should I use to make my other angles? Should I use my 1.4 or .6 ceramics or the 1000 grit stone? Then after I have made all my micro bevels my understanding is strop with both the 1 and .5 strops? Any advice would be awesome, thanks for everything guys!

- Rocco
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8535

  • mark76
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If you go from 17 degrees to 20 degrees, you're essentially reprofiling part of the edge and this involves a bit of stock removal. This is much easier using lower grit stones. So I prefer the 1000 grit diamonds over the 1.4 micron ceramics (or 1200 grit ceramics). It can probably be done using the ceramics only, but it will take a bit longer.

The disadvantage of using the diamond stones for this work is that it can go too fast and that you have to be careful not to wipe out the entire 17 degree edge. A loupe helps in checking how you are doing.

Then going down from 20 to 19 to 18 is probably possible using the ceramics only, but I usually do it using a few swipes of the 1000 grit diamonds, followed by some polishing with the ceramics.

For blending the resulting multi-beveled edge into a full convex edge, make sure you use a Wicked Edge paste on a leather strop and not a diamond spray: the Wicked Edge pastes have much more burnising power. I usually use the 3.5 micron paste. I don't have the 1 micron paste, but my guess is it should work equally well.

I did a series of blog posts on convex edges with the WEPS. You can find it here.
Last Edit: 1 year 6 months ago by mark76.
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The following user(s) said Thank You: leomitch

Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8536

That's awesome Mark, thanks!
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8537

Wow this is awesome reading! The amount of information here blows me away, I spent quite a while looking for convex info and people keep introducing me to more and more. Any advice on what magnification loupe to get? Thanks again!
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8538

  • BluntCut
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RoccoSanello wrote:
Wow this is awesome reading! The amount of information here blows me away, I spent quite a while looking for convex info and people keep introducing me to more and more. Any advice on what magnification loupe to get? Thanks again!

Peak 15x or 22x achromatic lens (colors corrected). Pricy but worth the $
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8541

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mark76 wrote:

For blending the resulting multi-beveled edge into a full convex edge, make sure you use a Wicked Edge paste on a leather strop and not a diamond spray: the Wicked Edge pastes have much more burnising power. I usually use the 3.5 micron paste. I don't have the 1 micron paste, but my guess is it should work equally well.

I agree with Mark for the most part and follow his basic process if using the WEPS diamond stones. I do currently use some DMT diamond paste at 6 and 3 microns for the first part of the blending process, then diamond spray on leather at 1 and 0.5 to finish. I do like my results, but I haven't found that there is any magic in the type of spray or paste that you use. I ran out of the WEPS paste and had some DMT paste around, so I use it (I will likely get some more WEPS paste next time I put together an order, as it seems a bit faster than the DMT pastes).
If you can get some of the 14/10 micron strops, and are careful, you can take some time off of the job... But I don't believe that any of the pastes or sprays are capable of any level of useful burnishing when used on leather against hardened steel. So far we have no objective evidence of that.

Be patient and take your time. Play with different things. You may not hit it perfectly the first time, but you will get there Rocco!

Phil
Phil

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Hoping there is that bridge!
I miss you Buddy!
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8545

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RoccoSanello wrote:
Any advice on what magnification loupe to get? Thanks again!

I use this one. Technically a microscope, but works exactly like a loop. 45x magnification and only $6.95
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8546

I just finished my convex edge and I can shave the hair off my arm with ease! Extremely excited (as passing the "easy" shave test was my goal) thank you so much for all your help! Ontop of that I took BluntCuts advice and just purchased a Peak 22x achromatic lense from Amazon. One other hiccup in the process was, as I was picking up speed with the stropping I got careless in my motions and on my backstroke drew my thumb across the edge of the razor-sharp blade. Was able to clean it out quick and put the flap of skin back down into place. Another valuable lesson learned! Regardless of my stupid blunder, beyond satisfied with my first attempt at a convex edge!
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8553

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I like to say.."you can't argue with success" :)
Congratulations on your first convex edge with the WEPS !!

Phil
Phil

MAX 2001-2013
Hoping there is that bridge!
I miss you Buddy!
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Re: Ceramic or 1000 grit stone for convex bevels??? 1 year 6 months ago #8554

Thanks Phil! I can't wait for my loupe to get here so I can actually check out what I did in detail. I'd imagine being able to visually track your progress would make the process a little easier. I got an email notification saying there was a post on this thread by somebody asking "why the convex edge?" but it seems to not be here. My understanding is that the "arch" instead of the "V" gives the cutting edge a stronger, more continuous backing and it requires less maintenance than a V edge. Either way, extremely pleased. I won't know how great of a job I really did until tomorrow when my loupe gets here, but it performed pretty wicked without a doubt!
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