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TOPIC: Sharpening a Serrated Edge

Sharpening a Serrated Edge 1 day 3 hours ago #19009

  • razoredgeknives
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Well to be specific, it has been tried (not sure where the post is on it though, would have to do some digging)... I think it was Curtis and Clay that were playing around with it. But one of the issues, of course, will be that your base pivot ball joint will have to be able to slide parallel to the edge so that the stone is always exactly 90 degrees to your edge so it fits in each serration properly... understand? ;) not trying to burst your experiments... I would love to hear how they turn out! But the most efficient way I have found to date is done with radius'd 1/4" wheels (both gritted and plain paper that has compound on it). this will give a hair popping, push cutting edge on serratoins that couldn't even hardly cut cardboard and were all but destroyed before... but I do this for a business and need something that will be next to perfect and not take a ton of time. Keep us posted!
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Sharpening a Serrated Edge 1 day 3 hours ago #19011

  • Zamfir
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Ahh I get that. Did not think about the parallel sliding thing. I guess it is not much of a deal if the serrations are just an inch section of the blade. But if much more than that it would get wierd.. I guess you would have to slide the dang blade back.
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Sharpening a Serrated Edge 21 hours 12 minutes ago #19016

  • tcmeyer
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I started down this path a while back but then was sidetracked by so many other jobs I've started.

If you know a cabinetmaker or a friend with a woodshop, he'll probably have a router and dovetail bits. Here's how I was going to do it:

Pick a handle material, maybe plastic or something solid. For the hell of it, try making the block 3" long, 1-1/2" square. I could even make one out hardwood. Have your friend rout a dovetail slot down the center along one side. The depth doesn't have to be more than about 1/4", if that. If the width and depth work out OK, you should be able to slide your triangle into position without even providing a clamp feature. Snug fit. Actually, Ive done this and my brother has also done it, so this should be a no-brainer. The Spyderco Triangles are 1/2" across the flats and typical dovetail bits are 1/2" wide at the bottom of the slot. Since the Triangles are 60 degrees, have radiused corners and since dovetail bits are like 14 degrees, the stick should slide right in. See the photo at the bottom where my brother adapted one to his homemade WE system.

You need to forget about a handle/holder that slides up and down on a pivoting rod. This setup requires that the stone stay perpendicular to the knife and the rod moves with the stone.

Along the back of the stone-holder drill a 1/4" thru hole, running parallel to the stone. Into this hole, press a length of 1/4" metal rod; steel, aluminum, whatever. Now you've got your stone and guide in you sweaty little hands.

Now get creative and install a rail that runs parallel to the knife in such a way that you can adjust its height and distance from the vise. Maybe it's a length of the same 1/4" rod material, supported at each end by some adjustable mount. Make the top of the rail smooth and slippery.

The premise here is that you have the stone with its guide rod as a tool, loose and in you sharpening hand. You keep the stone perpendicular to the serrated edge, with the 1/4" rod always touching the rail. As you move along the edge, you also slide the rod along the rail. The length of the rod depends on the length of stroke you want and how high you've mounted the rail. So there are some constraints.

The rail position sets the sharpening angle. For setup, you can hold a straight-edge against the knife edge and the rail and set your AngleCube to it.

I think the rail won't have to be real robust, so a simple two-piece link holding a cross-rail might work.

Frankly, I haven't pursued this because I think the Spryderco sticks are too blunt to reach into most of the better serrated knives. Good luck.

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