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TOPIC: Mora Bushcraft Black

Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 14 hours ago #14243

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Hello I am new to Wicked Edge, today I cut my Mora Bushcraft Black 
but I could not come in at the back of the shaft to the handle, is there anyone here who can give me any tips on how I can access that? 



this is the translators with Google Translate: (

Skickat från min GT-I9300 via Tapatalk 2
// Sorry About My Spelling I´m Dyslectic //
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Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 12 hours ago #14245

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That is a difficult area to get to. Some people will sand down the plastic platen in roger to get closer.

Keep in mind the the platens are wider than the stones to help protect your fingers from being cut while sharpening.

I usually don't worry about those areas and leave them how they came from the factory.
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Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 12 hours ago #14246

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cbwx34 suggested this for another problem
That's often caused by the edge "flaring out" where it connects at the heel, which will slightly change how the stone contacts. It's hard to see in the picture, but after this happened, I cut a little "sharpening choil" in the blade with a dremel.

The choil I believe he means is to remove a semi circle between the handle removing the blade you can not reach if you do this do not overheat the metal grinding it out otherwise you will de- temper the blade.
Shouldn't the blade be a Scandi grind in other words no secondary bevel but the whole thinning bevel should be sharpened to the edge although I am told it will not hold an edge as well as if you convex that cutting bevel you have put on it .
That Swedish steel is very good I like your knife.
Refer to Clay's tips for convexing the bevel
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Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 11 hours ago #14247

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In this case, LB, wouldn't the choil need to be the same size as the difficult to reach area, and if so, what is the gain from that?

I know I have knives that have a choil/ divot out of the blade near the bolster, but wonder what one gains from this other than ability to have an esthetically pleasing bevel.

Not trying for confrontation at all, just can't figure out what the advantage is.

Thanks
Mike
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Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 10 hours ago #14248

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This is a test, only a test. Have been receiving error messages when posting, so is for the benefit of the web Gurus only
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Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 6 hours ago #14252

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In this case Mike's right... this isn't the same issue that I referenced in the other post. This is the stone not reaching because of the handle and the stone holder contacting.

I keep getting a "500 server error" when trying to post, and sometimes just clicking on a thread to read. (Apparently the post goes thru though).
Last Edit: 11 months 6 hours ago by cbwx34.
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Mora Bushcraft Black 11 months 2 hours ago #14254

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I was thinking purely aesthetics and putting an end to the cutting bevel before it reached the handle would avoid marking the handle when sharpening . I have a Mora and it has the same set up the blade edge goes straight into the plastic handle .
They are incredible knives the steel is wonderful and they are a workhorse knife probable found in every Swedish home they get abused to hell because they are so cheap I think they start at a little over 10€.
Although cutting a choil out even with a dremel would be a long process if the steel is not to be overheated.
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Mora Bushcraft Black 10 months 4 weeks ago #14267

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u kan find a standard workhorse Mora knives fore 5€


so really the easiest way to access where when to browning is to grind away a small part of the plastic on plastic diamond grip?
// Sorry About My Spelling I´m Dyslectic //
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Mora Bushcraft Black 10 months 4 weeks ago #14270

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Yes that has to be prferable to grinding away steel and risk de-tempering it .
My Mora was given to me and it had been used as a chisel with a hammer on it plus since it is old and tattly I have ground the blade asymmetrically - good for feather sticks !
IMG_1430.jpg


IMG_1431.jpg
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