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TOPIC: Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?)

Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14888

  • bobguyman
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I am having issues getting a clamp on a Benchmade 890. I would prefer to clamp it on the Top due to the higher angle ability but I can't seem to lock it in solid or without a major tilt +/- 2 or 3 degrees.

I have tried double sided tape, other tapes and the only other option I can think of is to just do the math and subtract the 2 or 3 degrees its off and make adjustments to the arms to compensate.
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14889

  • razoredgeknives
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It looks like there's enough of a flat spot to clamp it on the blade, especially if you get the clamp corner bumped up to the thumb stud... Will that work?
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14890

  • LeoBarr
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Could you get a tool to remove the thumb stud for sharpening? There would be a lot more real estate to clamp onto without it otherwise I think you will find it will move whilst clamped or you will damage the clamp compensating for such a small area to clamp on.
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14892

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I cannot get the thumb stud off.. I have the bit to fit it but I don't have a way to clamp down the other side from spinning. I'll try at it some and see if I can get it off.

Thanks for the input though!

One question though, with the it being clamped so far back will the bevel be way off at the tip or would it be worth it for a secure clamp?
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14894

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If you have one of those pocket blow torches (they run on lighter fuel) I would gentle heat the stud the expansion should be enough to free it . It may have bonded itself through the use of different metals or it may have some locktight on the thread a title application of heat from a fine flame can often free locked nuts or screws . Stainless screws in aluminium masts are a favourite often they are painted over as well you can alma here the fused are crack free when this is done it saves the heads of fastenings or the threaded part from shearing . If you can get your hands on one it will be worth a try .
When you replace it use something like Tuffgel or some sort of stuff between the two metals.
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14896

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LeoBarr wrote:
If you have one of those pocket blow torches (they run on lighter fuel) I would gentle heat the stud the expansion should be enough to free it . It may have bonded itself through the use of different metals or it may have some locktight on the thread a title application of heat from a fine flame can often free locked nuts or screws . Stainless screws in aluminium masts are a favourite often they are painted over as well you can alma here the fused are crack free when this is done it saves the heads of fastenings or the threaded part from shearing . If you can get your hands on one it will be worth a try .
When you replace it use something like Tuffgel or some sort of stuff between the two metals.

Well I tried... I ended up rounding off the screw and dinging up the thumb stud but its no biggie. I will send it back to BM at some point to have it fixed. That said, I did manage to clamp it down solid right up against the thumb stud and it was less than a degree off so I'm happy.

With that said with it being mounted so far back would the bevel be an issue? The bevel will be about 3 times the size as the base at this clamp location.
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14897

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Sorry to hear about the damage that apart the mini blow torch is a most valuable tool for removing fittings . I would be tempted to see what the makers suggest to remove it and then possible get them to mail you a replacement saves been without the knife .
I have often found these studs get in the way for sharpening. I was tempted to put one in a vice the other day it was not my knife so I sharpened it on bench stones instead. They probable put super glue on them , do tell if you find out how to remove them.
It sounds as if the position of the clamps are far from satisfactory perhaps you could makeup some hardwood wedges to locate a better position for clamping .
Last Edit: 9 months 1 week ago by LeoBarr.
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14899

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bobguyman wrote:
LeoBarr wrote:
If you have one of those pocket blow torches (they run on lighter fuel) I would gentle heat the stud the expansion should be enough to free it . It may have bonded itself through the use of different metals or it may have some locktight on the thread a title application of heat from a fine flame can often free locked nuts or screws . Stainless screws in aluminium masts are a favourite often they are painted over as well you can alma here the fused are crack free when this is done it saves the heads of fastenings or the threaded part from shearing . If you can get your hands on one it will be worth a try .
When you replace it use something like Tuffgel or some sort of stuff between the two metals.

Well I tried... I ended up rounding off the screw and dinging up the thumb stud but its no biggie. I will send it back to BM at some point to have it fixed. That said, I did manage to clamp it down solid right up against the thumb stud and it was less than a degree off so I'm happy.

With that said with it being mounted so far back would the bevel be an issue? The bevel will be about 3 times the size as the base at this clamp location.

When I have to remove a thumb stud I use a pair or two of vice grips with something like paper towel to protect it from scratching... You can really get some positive clamping power and can get both sides so one doesn't keep spinning...

As far as knife position, if you want an even bevel with the way you have it in the vise, try tilting the tip down towards the base until your Stone stays perpendicular to the edge through the whole stroke.
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Tips for sharpening a reverse flat ground (term?) 9 months 1 week ago #14900

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LeoBarr wrote:
If you have one of those pocket blow torches (they run on lighter fuel) I would gentle heat the stud the expansion should be enough to free it . It may have bonded itself through the use of different metals or it may have some locktight on the thread a title application of heat from a fine flame can often free locked nuts or screws . Stainless screws in aluminium masts are a favourite often they are painted over as well you can alma here the fused are crack free when this is done it saves the heads of fastenings or the threaded part from shearing . If you can get your hands on one it will be worth a try .
When you replace it use something like Tuffgel or some sort of stuff between the two metals.

One thing that sometimes works if your afraid of direct flame to grip materiel or discoloring, heat something like the tool going into the stud, insert, repeat, until your transfer enough heat to the stub to breakdown the locktight and expand and contract the stud, then give it a go.
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Last Edit: 9 months 1 week ago by zig.
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