But apparently, at least with kitchen knives, people use this term to refer to how everything of the blade, with the exception of the bevel. The part that in Curtis' pictures above is called the blade or the blade flat. Is this a common interpretation or again an interpretation just a group of people use?
I think this is a very common usage, Mark. I refer to the "grind" as the overall (vertical?) shape of the blade, as in Full Flat Grind, Saber Grind, High Hollow Grind, Scandi Grind etc. (as opposed to the (horizontal?) shape of the blade: clip point, drop point, recurve, hawk, etc)
For bevels, I use micro->primary->back bevel starting at the edge. I find the term secondary confusing.
I think Mark and Ken hit on another point... referring to the grind style or type adds to the mix. I thumbed thru a couple of books on knifemaking last night. In Blade's "Guide to Making Knives" (a compilation from different makers), I couldn't find any reference to primary/secondary... but a bit of reference to what Mark and Ken said...creating the knife's grind type. Wayne Goddard's "The Wonder of Knifemaking" has a section on sharpening... he refers to the "higher angle" as the "primary sharpening angle"...
"A secondary sharpening angle of around 10 degrees will remove the shoulder and allow the primary sharpening angle of 15 degrees to be effective (p. 126)
... but then, one page later in writing about chisel grinds, he writes...
Some are true chisel edge and some have the secondary sharpening angle. (p. 127)
... which (to me anyway), seems to be a distinction between the grind style, and then adding a secondary "sharpening" bevel to that.
To create a double bevel using the Wicked Edgeâ„¢, it's easiest to create the back bevel first and then the edge bevel. Start by selecting the angle of the back bevel and working both sides of the blade until the back bevel reaches the edge. Progress through the stones to polish the blade as much as possible. Then move the collars out to the desired angle for your edge bevel. You can start with the 600 grit fine stones or even the 800 grit extra-fine stones. The edge bevel does not need to be large in order to be effective at improving durability.
Like Ken said... maybe we should just aim for something less confusing?