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TOPIC: Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own

Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 9 months 1 week ago #14538

  • razoredgeknives
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Note: I used the Low angle Accessory because otherwise I couldn't get the scissors to open all the way since the handle would bump into the WEPS base.
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 9 months 1 week ago #14547

  • mark76
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Nice. Very creative looking!
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 9 months 1 week ago #14555

  • DAUG
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This question maybe silly to some, but can someone explain the fundamental process during a scissors cut. The reason I ask is that I presumed that you have two sharp blades that meet at an apex to perform the cut, but I've noticed that one side can be sharp and the other side can be blunt, and it cuts just as well. So do both sides need to be sharp, or only one side...is this done for safety reasons? Also for fit and purpose some scissors are very specialized, like for instance hair/stylizing cutting scissors.....I understand there is a difference? So what are the basic principles and considerations of maintaining scissor edges?
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 9 months 1 week ago #14556

  • tuffybraithwaite
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razoredgeknives wrote:
Got'r'dun! Was easy enough to build... I can get any scissor angle I want and still use my stock arms (I put a hinge on the back side of the wooden "arm" and bungee'd the front). I also now have complete lateral movement for my corrugated sharpening (I will have to move the file 1/4" at a time down the length of the blade) so I can just pull up on the wooden "arm" and slide it down a bit. Then I used some JB Weld and epoxied the corrugation file to a WEPS paddle...

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very interesting Josh.....thanks
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 7 months 4 weeks ago #14969

  • GibCurry
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DAUG wrote:
This question maybe silly to some, but can someone explain the fundamental process during a scissors cut. The reason I ask is that I presumed that you have two sharp blades that meet at an apex to perform the cut, but I've noticed that one side can be sharp and the other side can be blunt, and it cuts just as well. So do both sides need to be sharp, or only one side...is this done for safety reasons? Also for fit and purpose some scissors are very specialized, like for instance hair/stylizing cutting scissors.....I understand there is a difference? So what are the basic principles and considerations of maintaining scissor edges?

I was hoping someone would answer your inquiry. I'm not going to be of any help either.

I think I observed in Curtis' setup that there was no movement along the length of the scissor blade. RazorEdge has the ability to quickly move the paddle arm down the length of the scissor blade.

Is that correct?

Is that specifically for pinking shears?

For other scissors and shears, does either the paddle arm or the scissor blade need to be moved?

That is... on normal scissors, can you set them in the vise, set the angle and then sharpen that side of scissors without having to make further adjustments?

Or is the lateral/length-wise movement critical?

Wondering.... I've got a small stack of scissors & shears requests piling up.
~~~~

For Now,

Gib

Φ

"Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

"My goal is to be a good, practical knife sharpener. My dream is to polish molecules."
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 7 months 4 weeks ago #14970

  • EamonMcGowan
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I can not answer in detail, but what your seeing in Josh's set up is for corrugated scissors. They look just like serrations and are done on one blade only. When doing them the way Josh is turning them out, you move the file over 1/4 inch at a time. So you lap over the corrugation.
I'm a newbie to scissor world. So I'm very limited. I had scissors backing up. Josh and a couple guys on here talked about the Twice as Sharp system.

twiceassharp.com/twice-sharp-standard

I bought the Industrial unit and as usual I over bought. I could have very easily got away with the above? Not that there is that much price difference? I have to tell you, what WEPS is to knives TAS is to scissors! I now put out the sharpest scissors you have ever seen!!!
You can know nothing? They send you everything that you will need to start a small scissor sharping business. Period!
They get their name cause the owner said "with my system your scissors will be twice maybe four times as sharp as when they were new.
I can not speak highly enough about the system and the support!
The definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over again and expect a different result?
An old Irish toast, May the wind always be at your back, may you always have work and may you be in heaven a half hour before the devil knows your dead. Cheers!
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 7 months 4 weeks ago #14972

  • LeoBarr
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Eamon it certainly is a beast I trust that it will pay its way at the moment I do not get many asking for scissor sharpening although possible as a business I can see that with marketing it could offer more volume than knife sharpening once you get hairdressers shears to do I imagine you could go to their wholesalers to promote your service as well as cold calling.
I sent twiceassharp a mail to see if they do a version suited to european voltages 220-230 paving the way should I decide to look at that market.
Like you I tend to overbuy although often going for an entry level model often leads to regrets later and additional expense.
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 7 months 4 weeks ago #14973

  • EamonMcGowan
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Leo, In the info that they supply to you they also add a list of industries to call on. I was amazed to see how many uses there are for scissors? It is so much more then hair stylist. With this system you knock out a pair of scissors in about three minutes.
I just took a quick look at their catalog and it did not say anything about 220? Although it did mention German and Canadian patents? And I have a American/English speaking catalog.
The reason I think I could have got away with the cheaper model is it turns out to be a real work hoarse and would have done the job. The motors are the same in all. The difference is in the wheels? The honing wheel on the standard leaves a more mirrored finish then mine, but mine is pretty darn shinny. Splitting hairs? I have been considering buying the wheel from the professional model when doing seamstress and back to industrial for the commercial guys.
Also the average price for sharping is $8-10 for 8" scissors, not bad for three minutes!
The definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over again and expect a different result?
An old Irish toast, May the wind always be at your back, may you always have work and may you be in heaven a half hour before the devil knows your dead. Cheers!
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 7 months 4 weeks ago #14984

  • razoredgeknives
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DAUG wrote:
This question maybe silly to some, but can someone explain the fundamental process during a scissors cut. The reason I ask is that I presumed that you have two sharp blades that meet at an apex to perform the cut, but I've noticed that one side can be sharp and the other side can be blunt, and it cuts just as well. So do both sides need to be sharp, or only one side...is this done for safety reasons? Also for fit and purpose some scissors are very specialized, like for instance hair/stylizing cutting scissors.....I understand there is a difference? So what are the basic principles and considerations of maintaining scissor edges?

What do you mean "blunt"? They will still cut if slightly blunt, just not nearly as well as of if both edges are truly apexed. If the inside edge (ie" ride line ") has ever been sharpened then whoever did it would have sharpened wrong and it won't cut at all. On a much smaller level, this is what happens when a scissor blade gets blunt, it gets rounded somewhat and won't cut as well.
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Scissor Sharpening... how to rig your own 7 months 4 weeks ago #14985

  • razoredgeknives
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GibCurry wrote:
DAUG wrote:
This question maybe silly to some, but can someone explain the fundamental process during a scissors cut. The reason I ask is that I presumed that you have two sharp blades that meet at an apex to perform the cut, but I've noticed that one side can be sharp and the other side can be blunt, and it cuts just as well. So do both sides need to be sharp, or only one side...is this done for safety reasons? Also for fit and purpose some scissors are very specialized, like for instance hair/stylizing cutting scissors.....I understand there is a difference? So what are the basic principles and considerations of maintaining scissor edges?

I was hoping someone would answer your inquiry. I'm not going to be of any help either.

I think I observed in Curtis' setup that there was no movement along the length of the scissor blade. RazorEdge has the ability to quickly move the paddle arm down the length of the scissor blade.

Is that correct?

Is that specifically for pinking shears?

For other scissors and shears, does either the paddle arm or the scissor blade need to be moved?

That is... on normal scissors, can you set them in the vise, set the angle and then sharpen that side of scissors without having to make further adjustments?

Or is the lateral/length-wise movement critical?

Wondering.... I've got a small stack of scissors & shears requests piling up.

Lateral movement is not critical unless you are doing corrugated scissors. My settup would work great for normal scissors :-)
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